Kitchen Remodeling Plans Part 1

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchen Remodeling Plans Part 1

Now the fun starts. Armed with a vision of the features you want to include in your new kitchen and equipped with an understanding of the code requirements and design standards, you’re ready to put pencil to paper and begin to develop plan drawings—the next important step in transforming your dream kitchen into reality.

The key to success when developing plan drawings is to take as much time as you need and to remain flexible. A professional kitchen designer might take 30 to 80 hours to come up with precise floor plans and elevation drawings, so it’s not unreasonable to allow yourself several weeks if you’re doing this work yourself. You will almost certainly revise your plans several times before you settle on a layout that feels right to you. And it’s not uncommon for kitchen plans to undergo changes as you make decisions about appliances and other materials. As you begin to research the price of cabinets and appliances and receive bids from contractors, you may well decide that it’s prudent to scale back for the sake of your bank account, and these changes may require you to revise your plan drawings.

The process of creating finished plans for a kitchen project takes time and is done in three phases. First, you’ll be drawing a floor plan of your present kitchen, providing a reference on which to base your new design. Next, you’ll be experimenting with various layout options to find a design that best suits your needs, a process that can take several days, or even weeks. Finally, you’ll be creating precise, finished floor plans and elevation drawings, which you will use when you begin interviewing contractors to do the work.

Most kitchen remodeling projects should have a plan drawing. A fully developed drawing includes elevations, floor plans, (you’ll need these to get your construction permit), and any other visual details that are of use, such as the style of the cabinets and the sizes of the new appliances you plan to buy. Lighting and plumbing illustrations also are helpful.

Literature from manufacturers provides key information that you’ll need for planning and for making your plan
drawings. Stock cabinetry suppliers, in particular, produce very useful materials that you can use to identify and represent precisely the exact size and style of cabinets you want.

Kitchen Remodeling Plans Part 2

Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 3

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 3

Door Guidelines

Exterior entry doors should be at least 36 inches wide and 80 inches high. Interior passage doors between
rooms must be at least 30 inches wide. A kitchen must have at least two points of entry, arranged so traffic
patterns don’t intrude on work areas.

Guidelines for Electrical Service & Lighting

Most major kitchen-remodeling projects require some upgrading of the electrical service. While your old
kitchen may be served by a single 120-volt circuit, it’s not uncommon for a large modern kitchen to require
as many as seven individual circuits, including a pair of dedicated 20-amp small-appliance circuits. In a few cases, the extra demands of the new kitchen may require that the main electrical service for your entire house be upgraded by an electrician. By comparing the electrical service in your present kitchen with the
requirements described below, you’ll get an idea of how extensive your electrical service improvements will need to be. Your plan drawings should indicate the locations of all the outlets, lighting fixtures, and electrical appliances in your new kitchen. Many areas enforce kitchen codes that are based on the National Electric Code (NEC) standards. Among the more important NEC requirements are:


• Two small-appliance circuits (120-volt, 20-amp) to supply power for the refrigerator and plug-in countertop appliances;
• Wall outlets spaced no more than 12 ft. apart;
• Countertop outlets spaced no more than 4 ft. apart;
• GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) protected receptacles installed in any general use outlet, whether above the counter or at floor level, including receptacles that are mounted inside cabinets;
• Dedicated circuits for each major appliance. Install a 20-amp, 120-volt circuit for a built-in microwave, a 15-amp circuit for the dishwasher and food disposer. An electric range, cooktop, or wall oven generally requires a dedicated circuit with service ratings of at least 50 amps and 240 volts.

The electric code only requires that a kitchen have some form of lighting controlled by a wall switch,but kitchen designers have additional recommendations:

• A general lighting circuit (120-volt, 15-amp) that operates independently from plug-in outlets;
• Plentiful task lighting, usually mounted under wall cabinets or soffits, to illuminate each work area;
• Decorative lighting fixtures to highlight attractive cabinets or other features of the kitchen.

Plumbing Guidelines

Minimum plumbing requirements for kitchens are enforced by your local code agency and many times are based on the Uniform Plumbing Codes (UPC). Like the NEC, the UPC is updated every three years, so make sure you are working with current information (the best way to assure this is to involve your local
building inspector). Most codes relate to the size and material of water supply lines, the amount of pitch on branch drain lines, and venting of drain lines. The types of fittings and transitions that may be used also are closely watched by inspectors. For example, old-style saddle valves that pierce supply lines to feed an auxiliary fixture, such as an icemaker, have been disallowed by virtually every municipality.

Heating, Ventilation & Air-conditioning Guidelines

Detailed plan drawings should show the locations of heating/air-conditioning registers or fixtures in your
kitchen. If you’re planning a cosmetic makeover or a simple layout change, there is a pretty good chance
you can get by with the same registers, radiators, or heaters found in your present kitchen. But if your new kitchen will be substantially larger than it is now or if the ratio of wall space filled by glass windows and doors will be greater, it’s possible that you’ll need to expand its heating and cooling capacity. Unless you happen to be a mechanical engineer, you’ll need to consult a professional to evaluate your heating/ ventilation/air-conditioning (HVAC) system. The code requirements for room heating are quite simple, but the methods used to calculate required energy needs of a room are fairly complex. Finally, your cooktop should be equipped with an electric vent hood to exhaust cooking fumes, smoke, and moisture from the kitchen. The minimum volume of air moved by a vent fan is specified by code, so you should always check with a building inspector before selecting a vent hood.

Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 1
Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 2

Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 2

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 2

The sizes of base cabinets and wall cabinets are fairly uniform among manufacturers, and unless you have them custom-built in unusual sizes, they will conform to the following standards:

• Base cabinets: height 341⁄2"; depth 23 to 24"; width 9 to 48", in 3" increments.
• Wall cabinets: height 12", 15", 18", 24", 30", 33", 42"; depth 12"; width 24", 30", 33", 36", 42", 48".
• Oven cabinets: height 84", 96"; depth 24"; width 27", 30", 33".
• Utility cabinets: height 84"; depth 12", 24"; width 18", 24", 36".


Not every manufacturer will offer all these sizes and styles, so it’s a good idea to obtain product catalogs
when planning the layout of cabinets. Some other tips:

• Use functional corner cabinets rather than “blind” cabinets that provide no access to the corner area;
• Include at least five storage/organizing units, such as swing-out pantry units, appliance garages, and specialized drawers or shelves. Eating areas. Kitchen tabletops and countertops used for dining are generally positioned 30", 36", or 42" above the floor, and the recommended space for each person varies according to the height of the surface. Islands. A kitchen island should be positioned so there is at least 36" of clear space between the edges of its countertop and surrounding walls or cabinets.

Guidelines for Basic Kitchen Construction

Plans for a major remodeling project that involves moving or adding walls or building a new room addition must accurately show the locations and dimensions of the new walls and all doors and windows. This will allow the construction carpenter to give you an accurate bid on the work and will allow him to obtain the necessary building permits. If you will be moving walls or adding windows or doors, you must identify load-bearing walls and provide appropriate support during removal and rebuilding.

Window Guidelines

Most building codes require that kitchens have at least one window with at least 10 sq. feet of glass
area. Some local building codes, however, will allow windowless kitchens, so long as they have proper venting. Obviously, if your kitchen does not have an exterior wall it cannot have a window (although a skylight is a great solution if it makes sense structurally). Kitchen designers recommend that kitchens have windows, doors, or skylights that together have a total glass surface area equal to at least 25 percent of the total floor area.

Dimensions and positions of cabinets follow accepted design standards, as shown here. (Click to enlarge)

Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 1
Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 3

Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 1

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 1

Whether you are doing the work yourself or hiring others, once you have a good idea of the features you want in your new kitchen, it’s time to create detailed plan drawings. Good planning drawings will help you in several phases of the planning process:

• Selecting cabinets and appliances to fit your kitchen layout;
• Soliciting accurate work bids when negotiating with plumbers, electricians, and other subcontractors;
• Obtaining a building permit at your local Building inspections office;
• Scheduling the stages of a remodeling project;
• Evaluating the work of contractors. If a carpenter or cabinetmaker fails to meet your expectations, your plan drawings serve as proof that the contractor did not complete the work as agreed


Codes & Standards

Creating plans for a kitchen can seem like an overwhelming challenge, but fortunately there are guidelines
available to help you. Some of these guidelines are legal regulations specified by your local building code and must be followed exactly. Most codes have very specific rules for basic construction, as well as for plumbing and electrical installations.


Another set of guidelines, known as standards, are informal recommendations developed over time by kitchen designers, cabinetmakers, and appliance manufacturers. These design standards suggest parameters for good kitchen layout and following them helps ensure that your kitchen is comfortable and convenient to use.

Guidelines for Kitchen Design

The goal of any kitchen layout is to make the cook’s work easier and, where possible, to allow other people
to enjoy the same space without getting in the way. Understanding the accepted design standards can help you determine whether your present layout is sufficient or if your kitchen needs a more radical layout change or expansion. A classic kitchen design concept, the work triangle theory, proposes that the sink, range, and refrigerator be arranged in a triangular layout according to the following guidelines:

• Position of the triangle should be such that traffic flow will not disrupt the main functions of the kitchen;
• Total distance between the corners of the triangle should be no more than 26 feet and no less than 12 feet;
• Each side of the triangle should be between 4 feet and 9 feet in length.

If two people frequently work in the kitchen simultaneously, the layout should include two work triangles. In a two-triangle kitchen, the triangles may share one side, but they should not cross one another. Don’t fret too much if you can’t make the triangle layout work perfectly. Some kitchens, for example, may have four workstations instead of three, and others may not have enough space to accommodate the classic triangle.
For general traffic design, it is recommended to leave 4-feet “corridors” between all stationary items for walking comfort. Some designers will allow this standard to be reduced to 3 feet in smaller kitchens.

Kitchen Industry Standards (Click image to enlarge)

The work triangle is a layout concept that lets you develop a convenient arrangement of the range, sink, and refrigerator in the kitchen.

Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 2
Guidelines for Kitchen Design Part 3

How To Replace a Standard Shower Rod with a Curved Rod 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Replace a Standard Shower Rod with a Curved Rod 02

PREPARATION

• Remove the old shower rod. If it’s mounted with brackets (not a tension rod), locate the screws, unscrew them, and remove the rod. If the screws are not visible, you’ll need to lift the decorative cover off the bracket to reveal the screws.
• Patch the old screw holes as dictated by your wall type.



HOW TO

1. Determine the desired shower-rod height by measuring the length of your shower curtain. Measure up from the floor and mark the height on both sides. Also, measure how deep you want the shower-rod placement, and mark that same distance on both sides.
2. With a pencil, mark the holes of the bracket on the wall. Tape the enclosed template (if supplied) on the wall to mark the hole placement.
3. With the appropriate drill bit, drill your holes. If you hit a wood stud, stop drilling as soon as you’re past the wall.
4. Tap in anchors—use the rubber mallet if necessary. If you drilled into a stud, no anchors are necessary.
5. Screw in one template with the rod attached. Slip the decorative bracket caps (if supplied) over the rod at this time, facing them in the right orientation to cover each bracket.
6. Attach the rod into the second bracket, and then secure the bracket on the opposite side with one screw. Check for level. If you messed up your hole placement, now is the time to fix it, which could mean redrilling the holes.
7. When you’re sure the rod is level, secure all the screws in the bracket.
8. Slip the decorative caps over the brackets and you’re done!


Which bit has the right bite?

Choosing the right bit for the right job is imperative. Not only must the size be right, but the type has to be right as well. The right type depends on the material you’re drilling into and the type of hole you want to make. Another factor to consider is what the bit is made of. Generally, the more expensive the bit, the longer it will stay sharp. The bit world is vast, but the ones I’ve listed here (from left to right) will get you through most home-improvement projects.

Twist bits are the most common bits and are used to make small holes in various materials. Masonry bits are used for drilling in concrete, tile, stone, and so on. Hole-saw bits bore out a solid core through many materials. Paddle or spade bits pierce a center point and cut quickly through wood by scraping material away. Countersink bits make a dimple in material to allow the head of a screw to sit flush to a surface. I prefer to use a pilot-bit/countersink combination because you get your pilot hole and countersink all in one shot.

How To Replace a Standard Shower Rod with a Curved Rod 01

How To Replace a Standard Shower Rod with a Curved Rod 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Replace a Standard Shower Rod with a Curved Rod 01


I’m always so grossed out by shower curtains that stick to me as I’m trying to soap down and rinse. What’s worse is when the curtain or liner is less than new—shall we say mildewy. I feel like I have to shower after my shower. Happily, today there are new crescent-shaped rods that increase shower space by 25 percent. Also,
because the mounts are curved, wrapping in toward the tub, less water splashes out, making a curved rod not only more comfortable but functional.


CONSIDER

Straight shower-rod mounting brackets will not fi t a new curved rod because the placement will shift farther in toward the tub due to the curve. Th is means you’ll have to patch the old screw holes. Whether your old shower rod is mounted on drywall or in tile will determine what kind of patch you will need to make. I suggest allowing the drywall patch or tile to dry for several hours before installing the new shower rod. This way, you’ll avoid accidentally hitting the patch or tile and damaging it before it’s had a chance to harden. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions, but the following steps will give you a thorough guide on how to replace any bracket-mounted shower rod.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

I strongly recommend purchasing an adjustable shower rod because it’ll save you from having to measure or cut the rod—plus it accommodates tubs from approximately 41⁄2 to 6 feet in length. Most shower-rod kits include many of the following materials. Check the package for materials included, and then see which items you still need from this list.

Adjustable curved shower-rod kit
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Drill/driver
Masonry or drywall drill bit (see kit instructions for size)
Rubber mallet
Pencil
Masking tape
Tape measure
Level
Wall anchors
Screws

How To Replace a Standard Shower Rod with a Curved Rod 02

How To Clean a a Showerhead

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Clean a a Showerhead

Over time, mineral deposits from water will clog your showerhead, turning an exhilarating shower into a dull drizzle. Good luck trying to rinse out shampoo. All that white chalky stuff can easily be removed with a few common household articles.


CONSIDER

This project uses a vinegar soaking solution to dissolve mineral deposits, which will improve the water pressure. Some fixture finishes may be damaged by overexposure to vinegar or any mineral deposit cleanser, especially if they are already old and worn. To avoid damaging the fi nish, check the manufacturer’s warranty. I also recommend checking the showerhead frequently while it’s soaking to see if any signs of pitting begin.
Allow up to several hours of showerhead soaking, which means that this shower will be unavailable until you’ve completed this project.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Plastic food-storage bag (large enough to fit over the showerhead)
Heavy-duty tape
White vinegar
Old toothbrush
Large needle or pin

HOW TO

1. Fill the plastic bag approximately 1⁄3 full with vinegar (enough to submerge the face of the showerhead).
2. Squeeze the bag closed around the shower arm and seal it closed with tape.

3. Let it soak for up to several hours.
4. Remove the plastic bag, being careful not to splash vinegar in your eyes.
5. Scrub the showerhead face with the toothbrush.

6. Let the water run through the showerhead for several seconds.
7. If you see some outlet holes that are still clogged, use the needle or pin to poke them open.

8. Run water through the showerhead again and repeat the hole-poking if necessary.

How To Clean a Shower Stall Drain

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Clean a Shower Stall Drain

There are few things I hate more than when I’m showering and dirty water starts backing up out of the drain and accumulating around my ankles. Gross! Th e culprit is undoubtedly a hair/soap-scum clog. Instead of using harsh chemicals to clean out a slow drain, it’s easier and safer to pull the clog out from the drain hole.

CONSIDER

Be forewarned: What you pull up from this clog will be slimy and super-yucky. Know that your bravery will be rewarded! It’s well worth the gross factor when you see that your shower water drains away effortlessly.

PREPARATION

• Unscrew the strainer grate. Once it’s unscrewed, a fl athead screwdriver may help you pry it out. Your type of strainer may just pop out (a). In that case, use needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to help pull it out. Work gently so that you don’t bend or crack the strainer.

• Set the strainer and screws aside; be careful not to let those little screws fall down the drain.
• Cut the wire hanger and bend it into a straight length. On one end, with the pliers, bend a 3⁄4-inch hook.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Needle-nose pliers
Cutting pliers
Waterproof gloves
Wire hanger
Plastic bag

HOW TO

1. Fish the wire hanger down the drain far enough until you hit something.

2. Twist around the wire hanger and try to catch the hook onto part of the clog.
3. When you feel you’ve grabbed something, slowly pull up the wire.
4. Remove the wad from the hook and go back for more.
5. When you feel the entire clog is out, flush with hot water.

How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 3

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 3

How To

1.Wipe down the surface with tack cloth. Remove all the dust and lint—it’s crucial to work in a dust-free environment.
2.Mix together the epoxy paint parts. (Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.)
3.Pour about one-third of the mixed epoxy paint into the roller tray. Evenly coat the roller and begin rolling the sink.
4.Coat the entire surface with a thin layer of paint. Paint slowly and gently. To avoid runs, do not overload the roller with paint. Use the brush to get to areas the roller can’t reach. Don’t try to roll over areas that have begun to dry. It’s normal if some of the original surface shows through the first coat.

5. Let dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and then repeat with a second coat. Start with a fresh roller. You may need to apply a third coat.
6. Allow the sink to dry and cure as indicated. Keep the sink off-limits and dust free during this time.
7. Reapply caulking if needed.


Refinishing Plastic and Fiberglass Surfaces

You can refresh plastic and fiberglass sinks and tub surrounds with a refinishing kit designed especially for these surfaces. This product is typically a water-based formula, which means that it’s easier to work with—it has shorter drying times and less fumes, and it cleans up with soap and water.


How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 1
How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 2

How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 2

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 2

Resurfacing products are temperature and humidity sensitive. Generally, they cannot be used at under 65°F or over 80 percent humidity. Epoxy paints can be tinted to match your fixtures. Follow the manufacturer’s tinting instructions. Otherwise, basic white and almond are readily available. Use only an epoxy paint that is nontoxic and lead free when completely dry. The products used in this project give off strong fumes, so be prepared to work in a ventilated environment; open a window or bring in a fan if necessary. Above all, strictly follow all the manufacturer’s directions and safety precautions.


PREPARATION

Especially with this project, great results rely completely on thorough prep work. You must follow all steps stringently. Don’t try to skip or rush through any steps—you’ll end up with a poor finish. So have patience!

• Remove all caulking
• Remove detachable faucet parts (like handles and the stopper). If any exposed metal is worn, coat it with an alkyd primer to protect the fi nish. (Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.) Th is product must dry completely before you continue.
• Sand any rust spots and scrape away any loose particles.
• Fill any cracks or chips with polyester fi ller. (Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.) Th is product must dry completely before you continue.
• Wash down the entire surface with cleanser. Rinse thoroughly with water.
• Apply the porcelain etching solution. (Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.) Rinse thoroughly with water, twice.
• Sand the sink surface with wet/dry sandpaper. Be sure to keep wetting the sandpaper as you work around the surface (a).

• Rinse completely until no grit is left. From this point forward, do not touch the sink surface with your bare hands—the oils from your skin will impede proper adhesion of the paint.
• Let the entire area dry for at least 24 hours.
• Tape off the edges, the drain, and the faucet with masking tape.

How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 1
How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 3

How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 1

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 1

Is your sink old and dingy looking? Do you scrub and scrub, but it still seems dirty? If you’re ready for a fresh-looking sink, but you aren’t ready for the work or cost involved in installing a new one, this project is for you!

Sinks and tubs are actually resurfaced (or reglazed ) with epoxy paint. Epoxy is most commonly known as a high-performance adhesive. In this application, epoxy adds an extremely durable adhesive property to paint, making it ideal for resurfacing sinks, tubs, and even tiles. In the past, I would only have recommended that you hire a professional to refinish a sink or tub, but today there are kits on the market for DIYers that are user friendly and nontoxic. While I don’t recommend resurfacing a kitchen sink or a tub that gets a lot of wear and tear, a bathroom sink gets just the right amount and type of use to keep the fi nish looking new. Just be sure not to pour nail polish remover down the sink, as it may cause the fi nish to blister.


CONSIDER

This resurfacing project relates to porcelain and ceramic sinks. Be sure that the product you choose works on your sink’s surface.

The resurfacing process is very time sensitive. Th e area must be allowed to dry for 24 hours before you paint. You’ll need to wait several hours between coats. Most products don’t cure completely for several days. Th is means that the sink must be off -limits during this time. Another time issue is work time—rollers can’t sit for extended periods, and once paint parts are mixed together, the paint sometimes has to stand for close to an hour before it can be used.


WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Most refi nishing kits include several of the items listed below. After choosing your paint or kit, see which items you still need from this list.

Screwdriver
Razor scraper
Plastic scraper
Eye protection
Organic vapor mask
Fan (if there is no window)
Nonlatex gloves
Sponge, rag, and bucket
Sink cleanser (like Ajax)
Porcelain etching solution
220-grit wet/dry sandpaper
Masking tape
Tack cloth
Two-part epoxy paint
Stir stick
Roller tray
4 high-density foam rollers and 1 roller
handle (4 inches)
2-inch polyester brush
Plastic bags
Lacquer thinner
Caulk
Caulking gun
Polyester putty (like Bondo; also called fi ller)
Alkyd-based primer for metal*

* If applicable


How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 2
How To Resurface a Sink Finish Part 3

How To Tighten a Loose Faucet Part 2

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Tighten a Loose Faucet Part 2

HOW TO

1. Examine the locknuts under your faucet and try to tighten them by hand.
2. If hand-tightening doesn’t work, use your pliers or basin wrench to tighten the nuts under the faucet until they’re snug. Do not force a plastic nut because you might crack it!
3. If the nuts have bottomed out, add a couple of rubber washers to the nut—this will add more depth to allow the nut to grab against the sink and pull down the faucet. To do so, first shut off the water at the shut-off valves, unscrew the supply lines with tongue-and-groove pliers, and then unscrew the nuts. Now you can add a couple of rubber washers inside the nuts.
4. Screw everything back into place, being careful not to over-tighten a plastic nut.

Basin Wrench

A basin wrench is a specialized plumbing tool that I highly recommend owning. It makes easy work of loosening and tightening fittings when there is limited space or access to reach a nut or hose coupling underneath a basin or lavatory. Without one, something as simple as loosening a faucet nut can be next to impossible to accomplish—certainly not without a lot of cursing and sweating!

How To Tighten a Loose Faucet Part 1

How To Tighten a Loose Faucet Part 1

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Tighten a Loose Faucet Part 1

If your faucet is sliding around the top of the sink, here’s the fix for you. The nuts of the faucet under the sink have loosened and are no longer securing the faucet snugly to the sink.

CONSIDER

To prevent your faucet from loosening in the future, it’s important not to jar or tug on the handles or spout—as when kids use the spout like a grab handle to hoist themselves up high enough to reach the sink. Aggressive wear and tear may lead to a more serious problem that won’t be an easy fix.


PREPARATION

• Working under a sink is always cramped and awkward. To make more room for yourself, remove all your under-the sink articles.
• Put down an old pillow or blanket to lie on so that you can be more comfortable as you’re working.
• Stand a lit flashlight inside the vanity for better visibility.
• If the nuts seem corroded and unmovable, spray them with penetrating oil and let them soak.


WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Basin wrench or tongue-and-groove
Pliers
Rubber washers*
Penetrating oil*
Flashlight**
Old pillow or blanket**

* If applicable
** Optional


How To Tighten a Loose Faucet Part 2

Faucet Aerator Maintenance Part 2

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Faucet Aerator Maintenance Part 2

PREPARATION

• Close the drain so that you don’t lose any parts of the aerator.
• If the faucet is old or you can see built-up mineral deposits around the aerator, spray the aerator with penetrating oil and let it soak in for about 15 minutes to make the unscrewing easier.
• Wrap the plier jaws with masking tape to prevent damage to the faucet.


HOW TO

1. With the pliers, unscrew the aerator.

2. Brush out the screen. Depending on the aerator, there may be more than one screen with accompanying rings. Carefully pull them apart and brush out the particles. Also brush out any buildup around the outside of the aerator. Soaking it in vinegar may help, but do not let it sit for too long as the vinegar could mar the finish.

3. Run the water without the aerator in place to flush out mineral deposits—you may be surprised at what comes out. (See how the water goes chug-a-lug without the aerator in place?)

4. Reassemble the aerator and screw it back to the faucet. Snug it tight with the pliers.



Restricted-Flow Washing Machine


This same type of aerator clog happens to your washer. If you notice that the water is fl owing into your washer with very low pressure, follow the preceding steps, with a few modifications: First, shut off the water to the washer from the shut-off valves. Unscrew the hoses and brush out the screens—you’ll be amazed
at how much debris has built-up from your water!


Faucet Aerator Maintenance Part 1

Faucet Aerator Maintenance Part 1

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Faucet Aerator Maintenance Part 1

Is the flow at your faucet down to a drizzle? It’s probably a clogged aerator. The aerator is a small filtering device at the tip of your faucet. It contains a screen (or screens) that serves two functions— filtering out particles and creating a smooth, consistent flow of water. Over time, the screen can get clogged and cause a reduction in water pressure as it fl ows out of the faucet. These particles may also cause the spout to sputter. Simply cleaning the screen will get that full flow going again.

CONSIDER

Whenever you take something apart, be sure to remember what order the pieces go in. In this instance, place the aerator parts down one at a time and in order from left to right, as if you’re creating an “exploded” view of the aerator and all its parts. Then work from the reverse when putting it back together.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Tongue-and-groove pliers
Masking tape
Old toothbrush
Penetrating oil*
* If applicable


Faucet Aerator Maintenance Part 2

Clean a Pop-up Sink Part 2

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Clean a Pop-up Sink Part 2

HOW TO

First You must find the retaining nut below your sink.

Second, with pliers, unscrew the retaining nut and draw it back onto the pivot rod. Do not run the water after you've loosened the retaining nut of the pop-up; it will leak from that opening. (see picture below)

Third, pull back the pivot rod until you can see the pivot ball; this action will release the stopper.(see picture below)

Fourth, pull out the stopper from the top of the sink and clean off the hair and muck.(see picture below)

Fifth, reinsert the clean stopper and push the pivot rod back into its original position. You will need to catch the hole at the lower part of the stopper with the tip of the pivot rod, which can be a quite tricky. Easily twist the stopper until the hole lines up with the pivot rod. You will know you have got it when you tug on the stopper and it does not come out.

Sixth, tighten the retaining nut with the pliers.

And last step, to be sure the pop-up is screwed in properly, close the pop-up, fill the sink with water, release the pop-up, and see if water drips from the retaining nut. If it does, snug down the retaining nut a bit more.

Do you smell foul odors from your drain?

Have you ever noticed that when you fi st run water, a nasty odor wafts up from the drain? What you’re smelling comes from a residue that builds up along the pipe between the drain and the P-trap (the U-shaped curve of pipe under the sink). The P-trap holds water that acts as a barrier to prevent sewer gases from
backing up into the drain, yet, it can’t stop odors from a “bio-film” that grows along the pipe between the P-trap and the sink. To remove this bio-film, simply remove the stopper or strainer and scrub with a disinfectant cleanser. Then scrub down the drain pipe with a bottle brush.

Clean a Pop-up Sink Part 1

Clean a Pop-up Sink Part 1

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Clean a Pop-up Sink Part 1

Frequently, all that stands between you and a well-draining sink is a clump of hair tangled around the lower part of your pop-up. It’s make no sense that a lot hair ends up accumulating in the lower part of your sink if you never cleanse your hair in your sink, but the hair finds its way down the drain. Whether if you are brushing your hair over the sink or clean your hands of hair gel, over time, hair strands build up and obstruct water from passing through the pipe. The hair clog may also inhibit the pop-up from closing properly when you try to fill the sink with water—water slowly drains down because the hair prevents the stopper from making a tight seal. So, it’s a nice plan to clean your pop-up frequently, to prevent poor drainage.

CONSIDER

Few pop-ups don't need any disassembly & can be taken out from the top of your sink, just pull out the pop-up & clean off the hair clog. Keep in mind to have a waste bag to discard the hair and muck.

PREPARATION

• Working below a sink is always cramped and awkward. To make enough space for yourself, remove all your under-the sink articles. (How do we accumulate so much stuff ?)
• Put down an old pillow or blanket to lie on so that you can be more comfortable as you’re working.
• Stand a lit flash light inside the vanity for better visibility.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Tongue-and-groove pliers
Waste bag
Flashlight**
Old pillow or blanket**
Gloves**
** Optional

Clean a Pop-up Sink Part 2

Design Standards For Kitchen

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Design Standards For Kitchen


While you may imagine that the answer to every cramped kitchen is to knock down walls and add more space, that’s often not the easiest or best solution. One alternative to tearing down the walls is to install windows for light. An extra door or even a pass-through window—from the kitchen to an adjacent room—can also help make the space feel more airy. In short, the cramped feeling may only be one of perception.

Most kitchens fall into one of four categories: Galley, L-shaped, U-shaped, and Open Plan. Whether they are small or large, old or new, these floor plans have proven to be popular models for efficient kitchens, though that doesn’t mean they’ll necessarily be the most efficient for your needs.


Galley

In small homes or city apartments, the galley kitchen is a space-saving choice that is ideal for one or two users. The components may all be lined up along one wall or divided between two parallel walls. For this floor plan to work best, the central galley space should be large enough to allow all appliances to be open at the same time, with enough space remaining for someone to walk through the middle.


L-shape

This corner kitchen layout can feel roomier than it is in reality, because of the L-shape floor plan. However, the two “arms” might also create an awkward workstation, with little room to set items down midway through a meal. Consider taking advantage of the lost central space with a counterheight dining table that can double as a prep station or even a freestanding central island.

U-shape 

This layout takes the benefits of a galley kitchen—space-saving solution plus accessibility for one user—and adds a third wall to create the ultimate triangular floor plan. In a compact space, placing the sink at the far end with the refrigerator and range on opposing walls creates a simple workstation. On a larger scale, a sizable island can anchor the center of the room and provide more storage.

Open Plan

Whether the kitchen is located in the middle of a larger great room or off to one side, an open plan layout works best with the addition of a central island or a dividing counter of some type. Perfect for family kitchens or entertaining spaces where the cooks can easily visit with guests, it’s important for this floor plan to be well organized so that all necessities are close at hand.

Whichever layout plan you opt for, the most fundamental principle that you don’t want to violate is to maintain plenty of free area between appliances, sinks, and other elements of the work triangle. In a galley kitchen like the one seen here, the corridor between kitchen walls should be at least 4 ft. wide, and preferably wider.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 6

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 6

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 25

Modern results can come from the most ancient materials. This ultra-contemporary backsplash is fashioned with edge-glued strips of bamboo—just about the oldest building material known to man.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 26

Open shelving adds visual interest to this contemporary setting.

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Bamboo makes an exceptionally beautiful and durable cabinet material and is commonly available with blond (natural) and various darker colors.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 28

An undermount sink and a single-body faucet make up a one-two punch that is a current favorite among kitchen designers. The combination is also highly practical because it is easy to clean and thoroughly hygienic.

The Complete Guide to Kitchens : Introduction
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 1
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 2
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 3
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 4
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 5

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 5

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 5

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 21

Glass mirrors and stainless steel create a repeating theme of reflection and brightness in kitchens.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 22

An apron sink and plantation shutters add rustic, rural charm to this kitchen. The wall-mounted faucet set and cut-marble countertop complete the effect.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 23

This semicircular raised eating area echoes the shape of the range hood, softening the room’s dynamic lines.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 24

Glass doors brighten the cabinets above this sink, relieving shadows in corners.

The Complete Guide to Kitchens : Introduction
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 1
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 2
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 3
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 4
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 6

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 4

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 4

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 16

Elements of a commercial kitchen include a stainless steel side-by-side refrigerator and specialty appliances. The sink and faucet also elevate the appearance of this residential kitchen. The multi-lite cabinet doors offset the commercial look just enough to keep the room from feeling too institutional.


Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 17

Fun colors, playful shapes, and unusual textures don’t cost any more than ordinary ones, but they can create a delightful and unexpected kitchen environment.


Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 18

Freestanding kitchen furnishings offer convenience, ease of installation, and excellent portability—you may end up liking them so much that you take them with you when you move.


Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 19

Traditional materials don’t have to be dull. Here, old-world clay tile makes a lively backsplash and the painted wood cabinets topped with butcher block countertop are on-trend in any modern kitchen.


Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 20 

Black and white never go out of style. If you’d rather not revamp your kitchen every couple of years to keep up with the latest trends, you can’t go wrong with this classic combo.

The Complete Guide to Kitchens : Introduction
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 1
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 2
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 3
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 5
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 6

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 3

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 3

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 12

A minimalist’s dream, this contemporary kitchen makes a dramatic design statement mostly by virtue of what it leaves out. A concrete countertop and matching backsplash work with the clean lines of the bamboo drawer and door fronts to create a soothing effect. What else do you really need?

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 13

Streamlined details make small kitchens appear larger. Here, contemporary flat-front cabinets with sleek handles allow the furnishings and décor to be the room’s focus.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 14

Counter space can double as an eating space in many kitchens. Provide approximately 24" per seated diner.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 15

Fitted pieces create the appearance of furniture rather than cabinets. Choosing pieces with legs and eliminating toe kicks helps emphasize this custom look.

The Complete Guide to Kitchens : Introduction
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 1
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 2
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 4 
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 5
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 6 

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 2

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 2

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 07

Homework has become yet another function of the kitchen. A spacious breakfast bar offers a comfortable, supervised space where kids can finish up school work while dinner is being prepared.

Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 08

Kitchens invite conviviality, so why not plan for it? By creating dedicated seating and eating areas adjacent to the kitchen, a chef who enjoys entertaining can insert himself or herself into the fun without creating obstacles that can threaten the delicate timing of a gourmet meal.


Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 09

Air drying dishes uses zero energy and does not spread bacteria or other contaminants as cloth-drying can. These wall-hung metal shelves function as drying racks because they are positioned directly over the integral drainboard that’s cast into the countertop.


Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 10

Living in an apartment or small townhome with a modest kitchen can mean you need to incorporate other elements into the room’s function. Choose appliances that blend with your décor and use cabinetry to tie it all together visually.


Gallery of Kitchen Ideas 11

Flow is as important for the eye as it is for the feet. If you direct the feet to move toward an eye-catching feature, like this picture window with a stunning skyline view, the eye tends to keep going after the feet stop. 


The Complete Guide to Kitchens : Introduction
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 1
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 3
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 4
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 5
Gallery of Kitchen Ideas Part 6