Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Renew a Cultured Marble Vanity Countertop 01
Many vanity countertops are made of cultured marble (also known as engineered marble). Cultured marble is actually a composite of marble dust or crushed limestone and polyester resins. It requires less care than a tile or natural stone countertop. However, over time, it can lose its shine and start to look dull and shabby. Renewing cultured marble is a matter of restoring the gelcoat fi nish. Th is top coat is applied during the manufacturing process in order to create a shiny, waterproof surface. When this gelcoat gets scratched or discolored, it can be sanded, rubbed, and then buff ed to look like new.
CONSIDER THIS
• I recommend removing the faucet so it’s out of your way.
• Deep scratches and stains that have gone through the gelcoat are impossible to remove. Do not sand past the gelcoat! Doing so will leave a permanent dull spot.
• All the steps can be done by hand. However, a buffer/ polisher is optimal because it rotates evenly and at a low speed (unlike a drill).
• If you use a drill/driver with a buffi ng pad, be careful not to overdo it—controlling the speed is the key.
• To maintain your cultured countertop, regularly use a product like Gel-Gloss to keep a waterproof and shiny
surface.
PREP WORK
• Remove the faucet.
• Protect the surrounding area by taping it off with newspaper.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
This process is also used on cars and boats. You can readily find thesematerials in an auto parts or marine store.
Electric drill or buffer/polisher
Masking tape
Newspaper
Dust mask
Safety glasses
1200-grit wet/dry sandpaper
Sponge
Bucket of water
Clean rags
Buffi ng pads that fi t an electric drill or
electric buffer/polisher
Rubbing compound for fi berglass (medium
cutting)
Microfi ber towel
Paste wax or polish for fi berglass
Sponge or foam pad for paste or polish
Monday, October 31, 2011
How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 05
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 05
THE PROJECT: Disc-type faucet
A disc-type faucet is usually a single-handled control as illustrated in this project. They work like this—
in a cylinder, two disks, either plastic or ceramic, glide over one another as you spin the handle. Each disk has corresponding holes that open and close as they rotate to control the fl ow of hot and cold water. They’re practically maintenance free. But, if you have hard water, seals may corrode or a disk may crack.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handle. Locate the setscrew in the handle housing. It’s sometimes hidden behind a small decorative cover. Pry off the cover with a fl athead screwdriver or metal nail fi le, loosen the set-screw with an Allen wrench, and lift off the handle.
2. Lift off the escutcheon, which should expose the disk assembly (also referred to as the disk cartridge or cylinder).
3. You’ll probably see mounting screws.Unscrew them and lift out the cylinder—use pliers if it’s stubborn.
4. With the disk assembly out, you’ll see three neoprene seals. Remove them and clean off any debris in the recesses or on the lower disk with a plastic scour pad.
5. Insert the new seals. A cleaned disk, inlets, and new seals may be all you need to stop the leak. To check if this has done the trick, reassemble the faucet, and put the handle in the on position. Then slowly turn on the water from the shut-off—a sudden surge of water could crack a disk.
6. If there’s still a leak, shut off the water from the shut-off valve and disassemble the faucet as described in Steps 1–4.
7. With the entire disk assembly removed, drop in the new replacement cartridge and reassemble the faucet
and screw on the handle.
8. Put the handle in the on position, and then slowly turn on the water from the shut-off valve. Give the faucet a spin, check for leaks . . . tah-dah!
THE PROJECT: Disc-type faucet
A disc-type faucet is usually a single-handled control as illustrated in this project. They work like this—
in a cylinder, two disks, either plastic or ceramic, glide over one another as you spin the handle. Each disk has corresponding holes that open and close as they rotate to control the fl ow of hot and cold water. They’re practically maintenance free. But, if you have hard water, seals may corrode or a disk may crack.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handle. Locate the setscrew in the handle housing. It’s sometimes hidden behind a small decorative cover. Pry off the cover with a fl athead screwdriver or metal nail fi le, loosen the set-screw with an Allen wrench, and lift off the handle.
2. Lift off the escutcheon, which should expose the disk assembly (also referred to as the disk cartridge or cylinder).
3. You’ll probably see mounting screws.Unscrew them and lift out the cylinder—use pliers if it’s stubborn.
4. With the disk assembly out, you’ll see three neoprene seals. Remove them and clean off any debris in the recesses or on the lower disk with a plastic scour pad.
5. Insert the new seals. A cleaned disk, inlets, and new seals may be all you need to stop the leak. To check if this has done the trick, reassemble the faucet, and put the handle in the on position. Then slowly turn on the water from the shut-off—a sudden surge of water could crack a disk.
6. If there’s still a leak, shut off the water from the shut-off valve and disassemble the faucet as described in Steps 1–4.
7. With the entire disk assembly removed, drop in the new replacement cartridge and reassemble the faucet
and screw on the handle.
8. Put the handle in the on position, and then slowly turn on the water from the shut-off valve. Give the faucet a spin, check for leaks . . . tah-dah!
Sunday, October 30, 2011
How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 04
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 04
THE PROJECT: Cartridge-type faucet
A cartridge-type faucet (my favorite) uses a plastic or brass cartridge that houses a stem that slides up and down in the handle to control the water fl ow. They’re used in single or double-handled faucets. It’s the simplest of all types to work on because the entire cartridge slips in and out for easy repair or replacement.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handle(s). To do this you must locate a screw that is usually hidden beneath a decorative cap. Gently pry the cap off with a metal nail file or flathead screwdriver.
With the screw exposed, unscrew it and lift off the handle.
2. With the handle off, there may be a sleeve, locking nut, and/or retaining clip(s) that need to be removed. Use a wrench or needle-nose pliers to remove the sleeve or nut. Use a fl athead screwdriver or pliers to remove the clip. (Faucets vary, so you may need to work through a bit of a puzzle to remove the cap, handle, nut, clip(s), and so on—be patient!)
3. Pull out the cartridge using pliers, but fi rst look to see if there’s a mark, fl at side, or notch and mentally note its orientation. Pulling out the cartridge may take some patience—wiggle it out little by little. If the cartridge puller won’t budge, see the sidebar “Using a Cartridge Puller”.
4. Examine the O-rings. If the cartridge doesn’t show corrosion, but the O-rings look worn, simply replace the O-rings. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry them off. Put plumber’s grease around the new O-rings and roll them back in place.
5. To replace the cartridge, bring the old one to the store with you for the proper replacement part. Remember to note the brand of faucet. If you have a choice of brass or plastic, opt for brass— although more expensive, it lasts much longer.
6. To insert the new cartridge first recall a mark, fl at side, or notch to indicate orientation. Push the new cartridge in place with your finger. The manufacturer may recommend plumber’s grease.
7. Reassemble the unit—insert the retaining clip(s), locking nut, and so on (if applicable), and then reattach the handle.
8. Turn on the water from the shut-off valve and test the faucet for leaks. If it’s a single-handle control, check to see that hot and cold water work in the proper handle position. If they’re crossed (hot comes out of cold and vice versa), rotate the cartridge 180 degrees.
9. Replace the decorative cap. Finished!
THE PROJECT: Cartridge-type faucet
A cartridge-type faucet (my favorite) uses a plastic or brass cartridge that houses a stem that slides up and down in the handle to control the water fl ow. They’re used in single or double-handled faucets. It’s the simplest of all types to work on because the entire cartridge slips in and out for easy repair or replacement.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handle(s). To do this you must locate a screw that is usually hidden beneath a decorative cap. Gently pry the cap off with a metal nail file or flathead screwdriver.
With the screw exposed, unscrew it and lift off the handle.
2. With the handle off, there may be a sleeve, locking nut, and/or retaining clip(s) that need to be removed. Use a wrench or needle-nose pliers to remove the sleeve or nut. Use a fl athead screwdriver or pliers to remove the clip. (Faucets vary, so you may need to work through a bit of a puzzle to remove the cap, handle, nut, clip(s), and so on—be patient!)
3. Pull out the cartridge using pliers, but fi rst look to see if there’s a mark, fl at side, or notch and mentally note its orientation. Pulling out the cartridge may take some patience—wiggle it out little by little. If the cartridge puller won’t budge, see the sidebar “Using a Cartridge Puller”.
4. Examine the O-rings. If the cartridge doesn’t show corrosion, but the O-rings look worn, simply replace the O-rings. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry them off. Put plumber’s grease around the new O-rings and roll them back in place.
5. To replace the cartridge, bring the old one to the store with you for the proper replacement part. Remember to note the brand of faucet. If you have a choice of brass or plastic, opt for brass— although more expensive, it lasts much longer.
6. To insert the new cartridge first recall a mark, fl at side, or notch to indicate orientation. Push the new cartridge in place with your finger. The manufacturer may recommend plumber’s grease.
7. Reassemble the unit—insert the retaining clip(s), locking nut, and so on (if applicable), and then reattach the handle.
8. Turn on the water from the shut-off valve and test the faucet for leaks. If it’s a single-handle control, check to see that hot and cold water work in the proper handle position. If they’re crossed (hot comes out of cold and vice versa), rotate the cartridge 180 degrees.
9. Replace the decorative cap. Finished!
How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 03
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 03
THE PROJECT: Ball-type faucet
A ball-type faucet always has a single control handle. A hollow metal or plastic ball rotates as you turn the handle that controls the mixture and volume of the hot and cold water. It has many little parts and for this reason more opportunities for leaks.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handle. Locate the set-screw in the handle housing. It’s sometimes hidden behind a small decorative cover. Pry off the cover with a flathead screwdriver or metal nail file, loosen the set-screw with an Allen wrench, and lift off the handle.
2. If the leak is coming from the bottom of the handle, you may just need to tighten the locking collar (adjusting collar). Use the wrench that is included in the ball-type repair kit (it’s a spanner wrench) to tighten the collar by turning it clockwise. To test if this has done the trick, turn on the water from the shut-off valve and see if this has corrected the leak. If it has, you’re done. Just screw the handle back on. If not, you’ll need to disassemble the rest of the faucet.
3. Make sure to shut the water back off at the shut-off valve to continue. Loosen the collar with the spanner wrench. Now remove the domed cap. First wrap the jaws of the pliers with masking tape to protect the finish on the cap, and then twist and pull off the domed cap.
4. Lift out the cam and the cam washer, and then the ball by its stem.
5. Your best bet is to replace all of these parts because you have the faucet apart anyway—the kit should have everything you need. Use penetrating oil around all the threads and parts to clean them off before replacing and reassembling the parts.
6. With needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver, pull out the valve seats and springs from inside the faucet. Be aware that these little parts will try to roll away from you.
7. Slip the new seats and springs onto the tip of a screwdriver and drop them down into position—tap them in place with your finger. Note that the springs go in fi rst, and then the cupped side of the seats fit over the springs.
8. If the faucet is leaking at the base, it’s probably the O-rings that need replacing. Pull off the spout with your masking-taped pliers and examine the O-rings. Pry them off with the hooked end of the spanner wrench or screwdriver. Put plumber’s grease around the new O-rings and roll them back in place.
9. Reassemble all the parts. Insert the new ball, cam washer, and cam—make sure that any tabs and notches line up with one another.
10. Slip on the domed cap, tighten the collar with the spanner wrench. Screw on the handle and pop in the decorative cover.
11. Turn on the water from the shut-off valve and check for leaks. Nice job!
THE PROJECT: Ball-type faucet
A ball-type faucet always has a single control handle. A hollow metal or plastic ball rotates as you turn the handle that controls the mixture and volume of the hot and cold water. It has many little parts and for this reason more opportunities for leaks.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handle. Locate the set-screw in the handle housing. It’s sometimes hidden behind a small decorative cover. Pry off the cover with a flathead screwdriver or metal nail file, loosen the set-screw with an Allen wrench, and lift off the handle.
2. If the leak is coming from the bottom of the handle, you may just need to tighten the locking collar (adjusting collar). Use the wrench that is included in the ball-type repair kit (it’s a spanner wrench) to tighten the collar by turning it clockwise. To test if this has done the trick, turn on the water from the shut-off valve and see if this has corrected the leak. If it has, you’re done. Just screw the handle back on. If not, you’ll need to disassemble the rest of the faucet.
3. Make sure to shut the water back off at the shut-off valve to continue. Loosen the collar with the spanner wrench. Now remove the domed cap. First wrap the jaws of the pliers with masking tape to protect the finish on the cap, and then twist and pull off the domed cap.
4. Lift out the cam and the cam washer, and then the ball by its stem.
5. Your best bet is to replace all of these parts because you have the faucet apart anyway—the kit should have everything you need. Use penetrating oil around all the threads and parts to clean them off before replacing and reassembling the parts.
6. With needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver, pull out the valve seats and springs from inside the faucet. Be aware that these little parts will try to roll away from you.
7. Slip the new seats and springs onto the tip of a screwdriver and drop them down into position—tap them in place with your finger. Note that the springs go in fi rst, and then the cupped side of the seats fit over the springs.
8. If the faucet is leaking at the base, it’s probably the O-rings that need replacing. Pull off the spout with your masking-taped pliers and examine the O-rings. Pry them off with the hooked end of the spanner wrench or screwdriver. Put plumber’s grease around the new O-rings and roll them back in place.
9. Reassemble all the parts. Insert the new ball, cam washer, and cam—make sure that any tabs and notches line up with one another.
10. Slip on the domed cap, tighten the collar with the spanner wrench. Screw on the handle and pop in the decorative cover.
11. Turn on the water from the shut-off valve and check for leaks. Nice job!
Saturday, October 29, 2011
How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 02
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 02
THE PROJECT: Compression-type faucet
The compression-type faucet is the oldest, most common, and least expensive of the four. It has two control handles. A stem with an affixed washer raises and lowers to open and close the water valve as you turn each handle. What usually needs repair on this type of faucet is the washer and/or valve seat, which gets worn out from the compression and grinding. Know that you may have a choice on how to proceed with this fix. You can either repair the old valve assembly or replace it with a new replacement cartridge—some manufacturers are now offering this as an option. Check online or with your plumbing supply store about a replacement cartridge for your compression type faucet. If the cartridge is available, go with it! Though it will be more expensive initially, cartridges last much longer than seats and washers. Just follow Steps 1, 2, 3, and 5, and then insert the cartridge.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handles. To do this you must locate a screw that is usually hidden beneath a decorative cap. Gently pry the cap off with a metal nail file or flathead screwdriver. With the screw exposed, unscrew it and lift off the handle.
2. Locate the packing or retaining nut. With tongue-and-groove pliers or an adjustable wrench, turning counterclockwise, unscrew the packing nut and put it to the side.
3.With the valve stem now exposed, pop the handle back on the stem, and use it to easily unscrew the valve assembly up and out of the valve chamber.
4. On the bottom of the valve stem, you’ll see that the washer is screwed in place by a single brass screw. It will likely be split and corroded. It may have even broken off and is sitting in the valve chamber. It’s best to take the entire assembly to the plumbing store for the correct washer replacement.
5. In addition to new washers, you should examine the valve seat. Run your finger along it to see if there are bumps that would prevent a tight seal. If there are imperfections it must be corrected by either replacing or redressing the valve seat, which will depend on the type of seat you have.
• The replaceable valve seat will have a hex or slotted shape in its center. You’ll need a valve-seat wrench to unscrew it. Insert the wrench and unscrew the valve seat. Bring it to the store for replacement.
• The fixed-type valve seat will have a simple round hole in it. You’ll need a valve seat dresser to resurface the seat. Insert the seat dresser into the chamber and give it a few spins to “dress” the seat. Do so until the seat looks shiny. Be sure to wipe away the metal shavings with a rag once it’s dressed.
6. With steel wool or a scrubber, clean the valve stem.
7. Screw on the new washer, being sure that it’s snug, but not deformed.
8. Hand-screw the valve stem back into the chamber and then reinstall the retaining nut with pliers or a wrench.
9. Pop the handles back on, but don’t screw them on yet. Turn the water back on and make sure the handles and faucet are not leaking. Screw on the handles, snap on the caps, and you’re done!
THE PROJECT: Compression-type faucet
The compression-type faucet is the oldest, most common, and least expensive of the four. It has two control handles. A stem with an affixed washer raises and lowers to open and close the water valve as you turn each handle. What usually needs repair on this type of faucet is the washer and/or valve seat, which gets worn out from the compression and grinding. Know that you may have a choice on how to proceed with this fix. You can either repair the old valve assembly or replace it with a new replacement cartridge—some manufacturers are now offering this as an option. Check online or with your plumbing supply store about a replacement cartridge for your compression type faucet. If the cartridge is available, go with it! Though it will be more expensive initially, cartridges last much longer than seats and washers. Just follow Steps 1, 2, 3, and 5, and then insert the cartridge.
1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valves, remove the handles. To do this you must locate a screw that is usually hidden beneath a decorative cap. Gently pry the cap off with a metal nail file or flathead screwdriver. With the screw exposed, unscrew it and lift off the handle.
2. Locate the packing or retaining nut. With tongue-and-groove pliers or an adjustable wrench, turning counterclockwise, unscrew the packing nut and put it to the side.
3.With the valve stem now exposed, pop the handle back on the stem, and use it to easily unscrew the valve assembly up and out of the valve chamber.
4. On the bottom of the valve stem, you’ll see that the washer is screwed in place by a single brass screw. It will likely be split and corroded. It may have even broken off and is sitting in the valve chamber. It’s best to take the entire assembly to the plumbing store for the correct washer replacement.
5. In addition to new washers, you should examine the valve seat. Run your finger along it to see if there are bumps that would prevent a tight seal. If there are imperfections it must be corrected by either replacing or redressing the valve seat, which will depend on the type of seat you have.
• The replaceable valve seat will have a hex or slotted shape in its center. You’ll need a valve-seat wrench to unscrew it. Insert the wrench and unscrew the valve seat. Bring it to the store for replacement.
• The fixed-type valve seat will have a simple round hole in it. You’ll need a valve seat dresser to resurface the seat. Insert the seat dresser into the chamber and give it a few spins to “dress” the seat. Do so until the seat looks shiny. Be sure to wipe away the metal shavings with a rag once it’s dressed.
6. With steel wool or a scrubber, clean the valve stem.
7. Screw on the new washer, being sure that it’s snug, but not deformed.
8. Hand-screw the valve stem back into the chamber and then reinstall the retaining nut with pliers or a wrench.
9. Pop the handles back on, but don’t screw them on yet. Turn the water back on and make sure the handles and faucet are not leaking. Screw on the handles, snap on the caps, and you’re done!
How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 01
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Repair a Leaky Faucet 01
When looking to fix that irritating and wasteful plip-plip from the bathroom faucet, the first thing you must do is identify which type of faucet it is from an internal standpoint. In general, there are four faucet types: compression, ball, cartridge, and disk. These names actually depict the part that controls the water flow.
You can make an educated guess as to which type of faucet you’ll need based on characteristics mentioned in this section. An easy way to identify which type you have is to contact the manufacturer. Being the adventurous type, I like to just open up the faucet (which you’d have to do anyway) and take a look around. It makes me feel like a doctor doing exploratory surgery.
CONSIDER THIS
You must locate and check that your faucet shut-off valves are working properly before starting this project. These faucet repairs require that you shut the water off from the water supply shut-off valve. These shut-off s are usually located under the sink—one for the hot and one for the cold. If you ever want to experience firsthand an I Love Lucy calamity, unscrew the faucet handle and start to dismantle the parts without shutting
the water off from the valves. Water will start shooting out and into your face like a geyser.
Once the water is off at the shut-off valves, slightly turn on the faucet to verify that it’s completely off and to release the pressure. Note that your faucet may vary slightly from what is described and illustrated. Remember to keep track of the order in which parts are disassembled to help you when you’re putting them back together.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
The following tools should be on hand for any of the faucet-type fixes in this section.
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Adjustable wrench
Tongue-and-groove pliers
Needle-nose pliers
Allen wrenches (hex keys)
Cartridge puller (for cartridge type only)*
Clean rag
Metal nail file*
Masking tape
Penetrating oil
Heat-resistant plumber’s grease
Steel wool or scouring sponge
Flashlight
Faucet repair kit, washers, O-rings,
cartridges, discs, and so on (depending on
your type of faucet)
Valve seat wrench or seat dresser (for
compression type only)
Plastic bag
* If applicable
PREP WORK
These steps apply to all of the following faucet-type fixes:
• Shut off the water to the faucet from the shut-off valves. Th is step is imperative to avoid a flood.
• Close the stopper and place a rag in the sink so that nothing falls down the drain and it’s protected.
When looking to fix that irritating and wasteful plip-plip from the bathroom faucet, the first thing you must do is identify which type of faucet it is from an internal standpoint. In general, there are four faucet types: compression, ball, cartridge, and disk. These names actually depict the part that controls the water flow.
You can make an educated guess as to which type of faucet you’ll need based on characteristics mentioned in this section. An easy way to identify which type you have is to contact the manufacturer. Being the adventurous type, I like to just open up the faucet (which you’d have to do anyway) and take a look around. It makes me feel like a doctor doing exploratory surgery.
CONSIDER THIS
You must locate and check that your faucet shut-off valves are working properly before starting this project. These faucet repairs require that you shut the water off from the water supply shut-off valve. These shut-off s are usually located under the sink—one for the hot and one for the cold. If you ever want to experience firsthand an I Love Lucy calamity, unscrew the faucet handle and start to dismantle the parts without shutting
the water off from the valves. Water will start shooting out and into your face like a geyser.
Once the water is off at the shut-off valves, slightly turn on the faucet to verify that it’s completely off and to release the pressure. Note that your faucet may vary slightly from what is described and illustrated. Remember to keep track of the order in which parts are disassembled to help you when you’re putting them back together.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
The following tools should be on hand for any of the faucet-type fixes in this section.
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Adjustable wrench
Tongue-and-groove pliers
Needle-nose pliers
Allen wrenches (hex keys)
Cartridge puller (for cartridge type only)*
Clean rag
Metal nail file*
Masking tape
Penetrating oil
Heat-resistant plumber’s grease
Steel wool or scouring sponge
Flashlight
Faucet repair kit, washers, O-rings,
cartridges, discs, and so on (depending on
your type of faucet)
Valve seat wrench or seat dresser (for
compression type only)
Plastic bag
* If applicable
PREP WORK
These steps apply to all of the following faucet-type fixes:
• Shut off the water to the faucet from the shut-off valves. Th is step is imperative to avoid a flood.
• Close the stopper and place a rag in the sink so that nothing falls down the drain and it’s protected.
Friday, October 28, 2011
How To Stain and Seal Floor Grout
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Stain and Seal Floor Grout
Okay, so you’ve tried my scrubbing tips on the floor, but the grout is still less than lovely. Don’t give up yet! Using a grout stain and seal (both products in one), give the grout a uniform fresh color that will rejuvenate your floor.
CONSIDER THIS
If you have recently done a tile patch, you must wait the total cure time—usually at least 7 days—before attempting to stain the grout. Follow the grout manufacturer’s instructions for cure time. Grout stain usually dries within hours, and normal traffic is permitted within the day. However, total cure time maybe over 7 days.
Unless otherwise indicated, these stains are not for use on natural stone or porous tiles. You must follow the grout stain manufacturer’s instructions for full knowledge of use and safety precautions for the product.
PREP WORK
• Grout must be completely clean and dry. It must also be free of pre-applied coatings of wax or sealant.
• To ensure color choice, do a patch test on a hidden section of tile.
THE PROJECT
1. Shake the closed bottle of stain, and then pour some in a shallow container.
2. Dip the toothbrush in the stain and brush it into the grout joints. Work in small sections.
3. When the product is “set up” in the joints, but still wet on the tile, wipe away any excess stain from the tile with a dry rag.
4. It usually takes a week for the product to cure. Normal traffic is permitted during this time, but do not clean or wet it.
Okay, so you’ve tried my scrubbing tips on the floor, but the grout is still less than lovely. Don’t give up yet! Using a grout stain and seal (both products in one), give the grout a uniform fresh color that will rejuvenate your floor.
CONSIDER THIS
If you have recently done a tile patch, you must wait the total cure time—usually at least 7 days—before attempting to stain the grout. Follow the grout manufacturer’s instructions for cure time. Grout stain usually dries within hours, and normal traffic is permitted within the day. However, total cure time maybe over 7 days.
Unless otherwise indicated, these stains are not for use on natural stone or porous tiles. You must follow the grout stain manufacturer’s instructions for full knowledge of use and safety precautions for the product.
PREP WORK
• Grout must be completely clean and dry. It must also be free of pre-applied coatings of wax or sealant.
• To ensure color choice, do a patch test on a hidden section of tile.
THE PROJECT
1. Shake the closed bottle of stain, and then pour some in a shallow container.
2. Dip the toothbrush in the stain and brush it into the grout joints. Work in small sections.
3. When the product is “set up” in the joints, but still wet on the tile, wipe away any excess stain from the tile with a dry rag.
4. It usually takes a week for the product to cure. Normal traffic is permitted during this time, but do not clean or wet it.
How To Replace a Broken Floor Tile 02
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Replace a Broken Floor Tile 02
THE PROJECT
1. In a pail, mix the thin-set according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. With the short end of the notched trowel, spread the mortar along the back of the replacement tile. Don’t go all the way to the edges. Spread the mortar on the floor as well.
3. Place buttered tile (a tile with thin-set mortar on the back side) into the space, being sure to leave equal spacing all around it.
4. Tap the tile gently with a rubber mallet so that the tile is level and flush with the surrounding tiles.
5. Wipe away any mortar that may have oozed out with a wet rag.
6. Let it dry for 24 hours.
7. When it’s completely dry, grout it with matching grout color.
THE PROJECT
1. In a pail, mix the thin-set according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. With the short end of the notched trowel, spread the mortar along the back of the replacement tile. Don’t go all the way to the edges. Spread the mortar on the floor as well.
3. Place buttered tile (a tile with thin-set mortar on the back side) into the space, being sure to leave equal spacing all around it.
4. Tap the tile gently with a rubber mallet so that the tile is level and flush with the surrounding tiles.
5. Wipe away any mortar that may have oozed out with a wet rag.
6. Let it dry for 24 hours.
7. When it’s completely dry, grout it with matching grout color.
Thursday, October 27, 2011
How To Remove Cabinets
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Remove Cabinets
Remove doors and drawers to make it easier to get at interior spaces. You may need to scrape away old paint to expose hinge screws.
At the backs of cabinets, remove any screws holding the cabinet to the wall. Cabinets can be removed as a group or can be disassembled.
Detach individual cabinets by removing screws that hold face frames together.
Countertops are usually not salvageable. Cut them into manageable pieces with a reciprocating saw, or take them apart, piece by piece, with a hammer and pry bar.
Remove doors and drawers to make it easier to get at interior spaces. You may need to scrape away old paint to expose hinge screws.
At the backs of cabinets, remove any screws holding the cabinet to the wall. Cabinets can be removed as a group or can be disassembled.
Detach individual cabinets by removing screws that hold face frames together.
Countertops are usually not salvageable. Cut them into manageable pieces with a reciprocating saw, or take them apart, piece by piece, with a hammer and pry bar.
How To Replace a Broken Floor Tile 01
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Replace a Broken Floor Tile 01
For me, it was a solid brass antique gaslight valve my cousin Sal gave me—he knows I go crazy over stuff like that. When he found it in rubble on a remodeling job, he knew I’d love it. Boy, did I! It went right on a shelf in my bathroom where I proudly display my other antique hardware pieces. Wouldn’t you know it? While dusting, I knocked the gaslight right off the shelf onto the tile floor. Happily, my antique valve was without a scratch. My floor tile, on the other hand . . . well, that was a different story. Here’s the fix.
CONSIDER THIS
Th is repair will take at least 48 hours before anyone can walk on the tile. Read the manufacturer’s instructions for product drying times.
PREP WORK
• You can protect the surrounding tiles by masking them off with newspaper.
• Saw out the grout around the broken tile with the grout saw.
• Drill several holes in the tile in an X shape and chisel out pieces of the tile.
Use the hammer and chisel to break out the tile. Start where the broken section is and work out from there. Be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves, and use solid blows.
• Clear out any remaining bits of mortar with a scraper. Be careful not to damage the substrate (the base that the tile is adhered to).
• Vacuum out any debris.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Floor tile
Masonry chisel and hammer
Rubber mallet
Notched trowel
Grout saw
Scraper
Newspaper
Masking tape
Small old towel
Safety glasses and gloves
Vacuum
Thin-set mortar
Mixing pail and stir stick
Rag
Matching grout and grouting materials
For me, it was a solid brass antique gaslight valve my cousin Sal gave me—he knows I go crazy over stuff like that. When he found it in rubble on a remodeling job, he knew I’d love it. Boy, did I! It went right on a shelf in my bathroom where I proudly display my other antique hardware pieces. Wouldn’t you know it? While dusting, I knocked the gaslight right off the shelf onto the tile floor. Happily, my antique valve was without a scratch. My floor tile, on the other hand . . . well, that was a different story. Here’s the fix.
CONSIDER THIS
Th is repair will take at least 48 hours before anyone can walk on the tile. Read the manufacturer’s instructions for product drying times.
PREP WORK
• You can protect the surrounding tiles by masking them off with newspaper.
• Saw out the grout around the broken tile with the grout saw.
• Drill several holes in the tile in an X shape and chisel out pieces of the tile.
Use the hammer and chisel to break out the tile. Start where the broken section is and work out from there. Be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves, and use solid blows.
• Clear out any remaining bits of mortar with a scraper. Be careful not to damage the substrate (the base that the tile is adhered to).
• Vacuum out any debris.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Floor tile
Masonry chisel and hammer
Rubber mallet
Notched trowel
Grout saw
Scraper
Newspaper
Masking tape
Small old towel
Safety glasses and gloves
Vacuum
Thin-set mortar
Mixing pail and stir stick
Rag
Matching grout and grouting materials
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
How To Removing Old Kitchen Cabinets
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Removing Old Kitchen Cabinets
Removing Old Cabinets
Old cabinets can be salvaged fairly easily if they are modular units that were installed with screws, and some custom built-in cabinets can be removed in one piece. If you’re not planning to salvage the cabinets, they should be cut into pieces or otherwise broken down and discarded. If you’re demolishing your old cabinets, the main danger is causing collateral damage in the room, especially to the plumbing, so work with care.
Tools & Materials
Reciprocating saw
Hammer
Eye protection
Scrap wood
2 × 4
Wallboard compound
1 × 3 lumber
21⁄2" wallboard screws
Tape measure
Pry bar
Putty knife
Cordless screwdriver
Sander
Stud finder
Taping knife
Level
Laser level
Remove trim moldings at the edges and tops of the cabinets with a flat pry bar or putty knife.
Remove base shoe from cabinet base if the molding is attached to the floor.
Remove baseboards and other trim moldings with a pry bar. Protect wall surfaces with scraps of wood. Label the trim boards on the back side so you can replace them correctly.
Remove valances above cabinets. Some valances are attached to the cabinets or soffits with screws. Others are nailed and must be pried loose.
Removing Old Cabinets
Old cabinets can be salvaged fairly easily if they are modular units that were installed with screws, and some custom built-in cabinets can be removed in one piece. If you’re not planning to salvage the cabinets, they should be cut into pieces or otherwise broken down and discarded. If you’re demolishing your old cabinets, the main danger is causing collateral damage in the room, especially to the plumbing, so work with care.
Tools & Materials
Reciprocating saw
Hammer
Eye protection
Scrap wood
2 × 4
Wallboard compound
1 × 3 lumber
21⁄2" wallboard screws
Tape measure
Pry bar
Putty knife
Cordless screwdriver
Sander
Stud finder
Taping knife
Level
Laser level
Remove trim moldings at the edges and tops of the cabinets with a flat pry bar or putty knife.
Remove base shoe from cabinet base if the molding is attached to the floor.
Remove baseboards and other trim moldings with a pry bar. Protect wall surfaces with scraps of wood. Label the trim boards on the back side so you can replace them correctly.
Remove valances above cabinets. Some valances are attached to the cabinets or soffits with screws. Others are nailed and must be pried loose.
How To Installing New Kitchen Cabinet
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How To Installing New Kitchen Cabinet
Installing new cabinets is easiest if the kitchen is completely empty. Disconnect the plumbing and wiring, and temporarily remove the appliances. If the new kitchen requires plumbing or electrical changes, now is the time to have this work done. If the kitchen flooring is to be replaced, finish it before beginning the layout and the installation of cabinets. Cabinets must be installed plumb and level. Using a level as a guide, draw reference lines on the walls to indicate cabinet location. If the kitchen floor is uneven, find the highest point of the floor area that will be covered by base cabinets. Measure up from this point to draw reference lines.
Tools & Materials
Stud finder
Pry bar
Trowel
Putty knife
Screwdriver
Straightedge
Level
Marking pencil
Tape measure
1 × 3 boards
Straight 6- to 8-ft.-long
2 × 4
Wallboard compound
21⁄2" wallboard screws
Installing new cabinets is easiest if the kitchen is completely empty. Disconnect the plumbing and wiring, and temporarily remove the appliances. If the new kitchen requires plumbing or electrical changes, now is the time to have this work done. If the kitchen flooring is to be replaced, finish it before beginning the layout and the installation of cabinets. Cabinets must be installed plumb and level. Using a level as a guide, draw reference lines on the walls to indicate cabinet location. If the kitchen floor is uneven, find the highest point of the floor area that will be covered by base cabinets. Measure up from this point to draw reference lines.
Stud finder
Pry bar
Trowel
Putty knife
Screwdriver
Straightedge
Level
Marking pencil
Tape measure
1 × 3 boards
Straight 6- to 8-ft.-long
2 × 4
Wallboard compound
21⁄2" wallboard screws
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 04
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 04
Universal Design
Design your kitchen around a clear, circular space of at least 5 ft. in diameter to provide room for a wheelchair. If your kitchen doesn’t have 60" of clear space, allow 48" for pathways. Plan for 30 to 48" of clear approach space in front of all appliances and workstations.
Universal Design
Design your kitchen around a clear, circular space of at least 5 ft. in diameter to provide room for a wheelchair. If your kitchen doesn’t have 60" of clear space, allow 48" for pathways. Plan for 30 to 48" of clear approach space in front of all appliances and workstations.
Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 03
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 03
Cabinets & Universal Design
When considering a design for kitchen cabinets, the issue of accessibility should be a priority. Cabinets that
require constant bending down would be inappropriate for someone with a bad back.
Shelves so high you need a step stool are not the safest bet for someone who is elderly. Considering the needs of users—and future users—is a smart way to start planning for a new kitchen.
Accessible Cabinets
Making a kitchen accessible to wheelchair users involves incorporating open, roll-in space in the base cabinets so that sink, cooktop, and countertops are within reach. Roll-in cabinets have no bottom or toe kick. The roll-in space can be concealed with a fold-away door. All other base cabinets should be modified to have an 8" toe kick. If upper cabinets are used, they need to have pull-down shelving. Base cabinets with pull-out shelves and pantries with lazy Susans are the best storage options.
Pull-out shelves for upper and lower cabinets offer the ultimate in easy access, not just for operators with restricted movement. If someone in your household requires a wheelchair, design your new cabinets so they have a full 8"-tall toe-kick area, not just the standard 21⁄2 to 3".
Cabinets & Universal Design
When considering a design for kitchen cabinets, the issue of accessibility should be a priority. Cabinets that
require constant bending down would be inappropriate for someone with a bad back.
Shelves so high you need a step stool are not the safest bet for someone who is elderly. Considering the needs of users—and future users—is a smart way to start planning for a new kitchen.
Accessible Cabinets
Making a kitchen accessible to wheelchair users involves incorporating open, roll-in space in the base cabinets so that sink, cooktop, and countertops are within reach. Roll-in cabinets have no bottom or toe kick. The roll-in space can be concealed with a fold-away door. All other base cabinets should be modified to have an 8" toe kick. If upper cabinets are used, they need to have pull-down shelving. Base cabinets with pull-out shelves and pantries with lazy Susans are the best storage options.
Pull-out shelves for upper and lower cabinets offer the ultimate in easy access, not just for operators with restricted movement. If someone in your household requires a wheelchair, design your new cabinets so they have a full 8"-tall toe-kick area, not just the standard 21⁄2 to 3".
Monday, October 24, 2011
Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 02
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 02
Face-Frame vs. Frameless
Once you have decided whether you will be purchasing factory-made or custom cabinets, you need to decide which type of cabinet: face-frame or frameless.
Face-frame cabinets have frames made of solid wood around the front of the cabinet box. Because the frame extends into cabinet space, the door openings will be reduced and a certain amount of “dead” space exists within the cabinet behind the frames. The hinges for doors on face-frame cabinets mount on the frame. The door itself may be flush within the frame or raised above it. Flush-fitting doors were common on older cabinets, but because they require a precise fit, which means more time and craftsmanship, they will be more expensive and more difficult to find.
Frameless cabinets are often referred to as “Eurostyle.” These cabinets do not have a face-frame and the doors and drawers span the entire width of the carcass, which allows easier access and a bit more storage space. The doors are mounted using cup hinges that are invisible when the doors are closed. Frameless cabinets have a streamlined look that makes them feel more contemporary in style. One drawback of frameless cabinets is that they do not have the added strength of the face frame, so it is critical that they are solidly constructed and properly installed.
Face-frame cabinets have openings that are completely surrounded by face frames made of vertical stiles and horizontal rails. They give kitchens a traditional look.
Frameless cabinets, sometimes called “European-style,” are more contemporary. Because they have no face frames, frameless cabinets offer slightly more storage space than framed cabinets. The doors and drawers on
frameless cabinets cover the entire unit.
Face-Frame vs. Frameless
Once you have decided whether you will be purchasing factory-made or custom cabinets, you need to decide which type of cabinet: face-frame or frameless.
Face-frame cabinets have frames made of solid wood around the front of the cabinet box. Because the frame extends into cabinet space, the door openings will be reduced and a certain amount of “dead” space exists within the cabinet behind the frames. The hinges for doors on face-frame cabinets mount on the frame. The door itself may be flush within the frame or raised above it. Flush-fitting doors were common on older cabinets, but because they require a precise fit, which means more time and craftsmanship, they will be more expensive and more difficult to find.
Frameless cabinets are often referred to as “Eurostyle.” These cabinets do not have a face-frame and the doors and drawers span the entire width of the carcass, which allows easier access and a bit more storage space. The doors are mounted using cup hinges that are invisible when the doors are closed. Frameless cabinets have a streamlined look that makes them feel more contemporary in style. One drawback of frameless cabinets is that they do not have the added strength of the face frame, so it is critical that they are solidly constructed and properly installed.
Face-frame cabinets have openings that are completely surrounded by face frames made of vertical stiles and horizontal rails. They give kitchens a traditional look.
Frameless cabinets, sometimes called “European-style,” are more contemporary. Because they have no face frames, frameless cabinets offer slightly more storage space than framed cabinets. The doors and drawers on
frameless cabinets cover the entire unit.
Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 01
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Cabinet Selection For Kitchen Renovation 01
Cabinets
Years ago the built-in kitchen cabinet was relatively rare. Food was stored in pantries and in freestanding cupboards, such as Hoosier cabinets, most of which are now considered antiques. Plates and silver resided in chests or in boxes stacked on open shelves. Today, you rarely see an American kitchen that doesn’t dwell in the shadow of large banks of built-in cabinets spanning floor to ceiling. But just as the kitchen furnishings have evolved, the cabinets themselves continue to change, mostly to reflect changes in style and design. It is also true that many cabinets installed in the last twenty or thirty years were, simply put, cheap.
If your cabinets are dated or marred (or just plain ugly) but still structurally sound, you may be able to get by with painting them or replacing the cabinet doors. But in most cases, the inescapable conclusion you’ll draw when you evaluate your cabinets is that it is time for them to go. Installing cabinets yourself is easy. If you just want to modify your existing cabinets, you’ll find quick-fix projects in this chapter.
Cabinet Selection
When purchasing cabinets, you have a number of decisions to make. First, you need to decide if you want to go with stock, semi-custom, or custom cabinets. Then you need to choose between faceframe or frameless styles. Materials, door and drawer styles, hardware and finishes must also be decided. Cabinets comprise three categories: stock, semi-custom, and custom. Stock cabinets and some semi-custom cabinets are available for homeowners to install themselves; custom cabinets usually are installed by the cabinetmaker. There’s a growing trend in “unfitted” kitchen systems, too. Seen most frequently in European kitchens, the cabinets and shelves are modular—like pieces of storage furniture—rather than built-in or fitted.
Stock
Stock cabinets are available as either ready-toassemble (RTA) or ready-to-install. Ready-to-assemble cabinets, also referred to as knockdown or flat-pack, are shipped as flat components that the consumer puts together using connecting hardware. In other words, in addition to installing the cabinets, you have to assemble them. Your options will be somewhat limited if you choose RTA cabinets, but you will be able to achieve a slightly different look from readyto- install cabinets. Although some RTA cabinets are made with low-quality materials, not all are poorly constructed. Carefully inspect samples of assembled cabinets to check material quality and engineering quality. If possible, also look at assembly directions to check for clarity.
Ready-to-install cabinets are purchased already assembled. They tend to be lower on the quality level, but typical utility units are suitable for a workshop or a weekend home. Larger building centers typically carry
a single style of stock kitchen cabinets made from a relatively economical species of wood, such as red oak.
Semi-Custom
Semi-custom cabinets are also factory-made to standard sizes, but they offer far more options in finish, size, features, and materials than stock cabinets. These are typically sold through higher-end design showrooms, with prices much higher than stock cabinets but still less than custom cabinets. Semi-custom is the best choice for homeowners who want better-quality cabinets with some special features and a custom appearance, but at a lower price than custom cabinets. You should allow at least three to eight weeks of lead time when ordering semicustom cabinets.
Custom
Custom cabinets offer the most in terms of options. These cabinets are designed, built, and installed to fit a unique space. It is wise to shop around before settling on a custom cabinetmaker, as price, quality, and availability will vary widely. The minimum lead time for custom cabinet construction is six weeks in most markets. When you get bids, find out if the lead time is from acceptance of the bid or from when the condition of the kitchen allows the cabinetmaker to take accurate measurements. Remember that exotic or difficult-to-machine materials and intricate custom designs will end up costing you more.
Standard Cabinet Sizes
Base cabinets (without countertop)
Height 341⁄2"
Depth 24"
Width 6" to 42", in 3" increments
Wall cabinets
Height 12", 15", 18", 24", 30", 36"
Depth 12"
Width 6" to 36", in 3" increments
Oven cabinets
Height 83", 95"
Depth 24"
Width 30", 33"
Pantry cabinets
Height 83", 95"
Depth 24"
Width 18", 24"
Cabinets
Years ago the built-in kitchen cabinet was relatively rare. Food was stored in pantries and in freestanding cupboards, such as Hoosier cabinets, most of which are now considered antiques. Plates and silver resided in chests or in boxes stacked on open shelves. Today, you rarely see an American kitchen that doesn’t dwell in the shadow of large banks of built-in cabinets spanning floor to ceiling. But just as the kitchen furnishings have evolved, the cabinets themselves continue to change, mostly to reflect changes in style and design. It is also true that many cabinets installed in the last twenty or thirty years were, simply put, cheap.
If your cabinets are dated or marred (or just plain ugly) but still structurally sound, you may be able to get by with painting them or replacing the cabinet doors. But in most cases, the inescapable conclusion you’ll draw when you evaluate your cabinets is that it is time for them to go. Installing cabinets yourself is easy. If you just want to modify your existing cabinets, you’ll find quick-fix projects in this chapter.
Cabinet Selection
When purchasing cabinets, you have a number of decisions to make. First, you need to decide if you want to go with stock, semi-custom, or custom cabinets. Then you need to choose between faceframe or frameless styles. Materials, door and drawer styles, hardware and finishes must also be decided. Cabinets comprise three categories: stock, semi-custom, and custom. Stock cabinets and some semi-custom cabinets are available for homeowners to install themselves; custom cabinets usually are installed by the cabinetmaker. There’s a growing trend in “unfitted” kitchen systems, too. Seen most frequently in European kitchens, the cabinets and shelves are modular—like pieces of storage furniture—rather than built-in or fitted.
Stock
Stock cabinets are available as either ready-toassemble (RTA) or ready-to-install. Ready-to-assemble cabinets, also referred to as knockdown or flat-pack, are shipped as flat components that the consumer puts together using connecting hardware. In other words, in addition to installing the cabinets, you have to assemble them. Your options will be somewhat limited if you choose RTA cabinets, but you will be able to achieve a slightly different look from readyto- install cabinets. Although some RTA cabinets are made with low-quality materials, not all are poorly constructed. Carefully inspect samples of assembled cabinets to check material quality and engineering quality. If possible, also look at assembly directions to check for clarity.
Ready-to-install cabinets are purchased already assembled. They tend to be lower on the quality level, but typical utility units are suitable for a workshop or a weekend home. Larger building centers typically carry
a single style of stock kitchen cabinets made from a relatively economical species of wood, such as red oak.
Semi-Custom
Semi-custom cabinets are also factory-made to standard sizes, but they offer far more options in finish, size, features, and materials than stock cabinets. These are typically sold through higher-end design showrooms, with prices much higher than stock cabinets but still less than custom cabinets. Semi-custom is the best choice for homeowners who want better-quality cabinets with some special features and a custom appearance, but at a lower price than custom cabinets. You should allow at least three to eight weeks of lead time when ordering semicustom cabinets.
Custom
Custom cabinets offer the most in terms of options. These cabinets are designed, built, and installed to fit a unique space. It is wise to shop around before settling on a custom cabinetmaker, as price, quality, and availability will vary widely. The minimum lead time for custom cabinet construction is six weeks in most markets. When you get bids, find out if the lead time is from acceptance of the bid or from when the condition of the kitchen allows the cabinetmaker to take accurate measurements. Remember that exotic or difficult-to-machine materials and intricate custom designs will end up costing you more.
Standard Cabinet Sizes
Base cabinets (without countertop)
Height 341⁄2"
Depth 24"
Width 6" to 42", in 3" increments
Wall cabinets
Height 12", 15", 18", 24", 30", 36"
Depth 12"
Width 6" to 36", in 3" increments
Oven cabinets
Height 83", 95"
Depth 24"
Width 30", 33"
Pantry cabinets
Height 83", 95"
Depth 24"
Width 18", 24"
Sunday, October 23, 2011
Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 05
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 05
The most important lesson of any DIY project is to know when to call in the professionals. While many of the how-to projects in this book are simply completed by someone with little construction experience, some projects will be more involved than they first appear. For instance, replacing a resilient tile floor may seem like an easy enough project, but the plot thickens when the subfloor is revealed to be in terrible shape and must be torn out and rebuilt. Another time to call in expert assistance is when plumbing or electrical systems are more than twenty years old. Though wires and pipes are meant to last over fifty years, some conditions will cause them to deteriorate, making it tricky to remove them safely. And while many hobbyists can pull off the replacement of upper cabinets with the help of a friend, there are plenty of us who would require a team of carpenters to help hang and install new cabinets. The how-to lessons in this book have been carefully broken down into step-by-step manuals for each project. Whether you need assistance or have lots of experience at DIY home improvement, the right tools and smart safety precautions make it possible for anyone to achieve dream-kitchen status.
Flextime: Your Little Secret
For added security, it’s a good idea to add at least 25 percent more time to your best guess when determining
the overall schedule for your remodeling project. Building in a few flex days as a safeguard against unforeseen
problems is also a good idea. However, keep this information to yourself.
If contractors know that your schedule is padded, they may feel free to bump your project for a day or two to
squeeze in a smaller rush job for another client. To ensure that your contractors stay on schedule, mark your flex days “cleanup” or “out of town”—don’t tell them you’ve built some extra time into the schedule.
Talk to Building Inspectors
Although building inspectors aren’t paid consultants, they can be an excellent design and planning resource. They are your community’s field representatives, and their job is to inspect the work done on your project to ensure that it meets building code requirements.
As experts in their respective fields, the building inspector, electrical inspector, and plumbing inspector can give you sound advice on designing your kitchen. Not all inspectors have the time or the willingness to answer a lot of design questions, so make your questions short and specific, and be sure to describe your situation clearly. Also ask if the inspections office provides a pamphlet that summarizes the local code requirements for kitchens.
The most important lesson of any DIY project is to know when to call in the professionals. While many of the how-to projects in this book are simply completed by someone with little construction experience, some projects will be more involved than they first appear. For instance, replacing a resilient tile floor may seem like an easy enough project, but the plot thickens when the subfloor is revealed to be in terrible shape and must be torn out and rebuilt. Another time to call in expert assistance is when plumbing or electrical systems are more than twenty years old. Though wires and pipes are meant to last over fifty years, some conditions will cause them to deteriorate, making it tricky to remove them safely. And while many hobbyists can pull off the replacement of upper cabinets with the help of a friend, there are plenty of us who would require a team of carpenters to help hang and install new cabinets. The how-to lessons in this book have been carefully broken down into step-by-step manuals for each project. Whether you need assistance or have lots of experience at DIY home improvement, the right tools and smart safety precautions make it possible for anyone to achieve dream-kitchen status.
Flextime: Your Little Secret
For added security, it’s a good idea to add at least 25 percent more time to your best guess when determining
the overall schedule for your remodeling project. Building in a few flex days as a safeguard against unforeseen
problems is also a good idea. However, keep this information to yourself.
If contractors know that your schedule is padded, they may feel free to bump your project for a day or two to
squeeze in a smaller rush job for another client. To ensure that your contractors stay on schedule, mark your flex days “cleanup” or “out of town”—don’t tell them you’ve built some extra time into the schedule.
Talk to Building Inspectors
Although building inspectors aren’t paid consultants, they can be an excellent design and planning resource. They are your community’s field representatives, and their job is to inspect the work done on your project to ensure that it meets building code requirements.
As experts in their respective fields, the building inspector, electrical inspector, and plumbing inspector can give you sound advice on designing your kitchen. Not all inspectors have the time or the willingness to answer a lot of design questions, so make your questions short and specific, and be sure to describe your situation clearly. Also ask if the inspections office provides a pamphlet that summarizes the local code requirements for kitchens.
Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 04
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 04
Practical Planning Tips
There are plenty of practical things to consider before starting a kitchen remodel, but some of the most important involve timing and preparation. In short, the more planning you can do before even touching a tool,
the better you will be able to handle the inevitable setbacks. As long as you make sure that it doesn’t coincide with major holidays or extended house guests, a do-it-yourself kitchen remodel doesn’t have to take over your life.
The first tip is to be generous when creating a timeline. You never know when ordered parts will be delayed or paint will take twice as long to dry as you estimated. For the most part, the simplest remodel can be completed within a week with more extensive remodels—that involve new cabinets, floors, and professionally installed countertops—taking up to three months to complete. Even if it’s a small-scale project, be prepared to not have access to your kitchen while work is being done, since even paint fumes can disrupt daily life for a day or two. One smart solution is to create a temporary kitchen elsewhere in your home where you can plug in a coffeemaker or microwave, or even a mini refrigerator.
Another thing to consider is the need for permits from your local building authority. Familiarize yourself with local codes before you alter anything electrical or structural. For plumbing projects, you’ll want to look into the requirements in your area or determine the need for a new line before you get started. As for changes that involve ventilation, you’ll want to refer to some of the building codes and guidelines we’ve included earlier in the book.
Like successful standup comedy, successful kitchen remodeling requires impeccable timing. Dedicate a calendar to the projects and be sure to keep it updated. Planning the timing is the only way to keep the amount of time you’ll be without a functioning kitchen to a bare minimum, and it will let contractors and tradespeople work more efficiently.
Practical Planning Tips
There are plenty of practical things to consider before starting a kitchen remodel, but some of the most important involve timing and preparation. In short, the more planning you can do before even touching a tool,
the better you will be able to handle the inevitable setbacks. As long as you make sure that it doesn’t coincide with major holidays or extended house guests, a do-it-yourself kitchen remodel doesn’t have to take over your life.
The first tip is to be generous when creating a timeline. You never know when ordered parts will be delayed or paint will take twice as long to dry as you estimated. For the most part, the simplest remodel can be completed within a week with more extensive remodels—that involve new cabinets, floors, and professionally installed countertops—taking up to three months to complete. Even if it’s a small-scale project, be prepared to not have access to your kitchen while work is being done, since even paint fumes can disrupt daily life for a day or two. One smart solution is to create a temporary kitchen elsewhere in your home where you can plug in a coffeemaker or microwave, or even a mini refrigerator.
Another thing to consider is the need for permits from your local building authority. Familiarize yourself with local codes before you alter anything electrical or structural. For plumbing projects, you’ll want to look into the requirements in your area or determine the need for a new line before you get started. As for changes that involve ventilation, you’ll want to refer to some of the building codes and guidelines we’ve included earlier in the book.
Like successful standup comedy, successful kitchen remodeling requires impeccable timing. Dedicate a calendar to the projects and be sure to keep it updated. Planning the timing is the only way to keep the amount of time you’ll be without a functioning kitchen to a bare minimum, and it will let contractors and tradespeople work more efficiently.
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 03
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 03
Use Your Rough Estimate
Don’t panic when you see the total; your first rough estimate is simply a starting point. In addition, it can help you answer some crucial questions:
• Is your rough estimate within the recommended ratio of your home’s market value? If it exceeds the range shown above, look for ways to reduce your budget.
• Should you do the work yourself or hire a contractor? The elements with the highest labor cost offer the greatest potential savings if you do the work yourself. In most cases, however, there are reasons why labor costs are high, so you should consider doing work yourself only if you’re experienced and confident that you
can successfully complete the job.
• Are you getting accurate bids? If a contractor submits a bid that’s much higher or lower than the ranges shown, ask why.
Reducing Costs
At this point you should have a rough idea of how much your dream kitchen will cost. Are you already over your budget? If so, don’t worry; the first estimate usually exceeds the budget. That’s why you’re figuring costs before you get started—it allows you to make carefully planned cutbacks now, which may save you from having to make drastic ones later. There are several ways to begin lowering your remodeling costs.
Comparison-Shop for Materials
If your heart is set on premium-quality materials, do some homework to make sure you’re getting the best
price you can. If the best price is still too high, bear in mind that good-quality materials can be just as serviceable as top-of-the-line luxury products. Although contractors and subcontractors will purchase appliances and materials for you, this service isn’t free; they typically take a markup on every item they buy. It’s often cheaper to research and purchase the materials yourself.
Comparison-Shop for Contractors
While cost shouldn’t be your first consideration when looking for a contractor, it’s an important one for most
people. If you want to reduce your total labor expense, it’s better to cut back on service rather than on the
contractor’s experience and abilities. Regardless of the contractor’s reputation or how much he or she charges, always check references. Whenever possible, talk to several recent customers and visit some completed job sites. As the saying goes, “The best predictor of future success is past performance.
Do Some Work Yourself
Since labor is often the most expensive element of a remodeling project, you may be able to save money by doing parts of the job yourself. However, tackle only those tasks that you’re confident you can complete successfully.
Bargain hunting is a very practical way to control remodeling costs that many homeowners actually enjoy (but
many others despise). Do bear in mind this simple bit of advice however: Don’t buy junk.
Use Your Rough Estimate
Don’t panic when you see the total; your first rough estimate is simply a starting point. In addition, it can help you answer some crucial questions:
• Is your rough estimate within the recommended ratio of your home’s market value? If it exceeds the range shown above, look for ways to reduce your budget.
• Should you do the work yourself or hire a contractor? The elements with the highest labor cost offer the greatest potential savings if you do the work yourself. In most cases, however, there are reasons why labor costs are high, so you should consider doing work yourself only if you’re experienced and confident that you
can successfully complete the job.
• Are you getting accurate bids? If a contractor submits a bid that’s much higher or lower than the ranges shown, ask why.
Reducing Costs
At this point you should have a rough idea of how much your dream kitchen will cost. Are you already over your budget? If so, don’t worry; the first estimate usually exceeds the budget. That’s why you’re figuring costs before you get started—it allows you to make carefully planned cutbacks now, which may save you from having to make drastic ones later. There are several ways to begin lowering your remodeling costs.
Comparison-Shop for Materials
If your heart is set on premium-quality materials, do some homework to make sure you’re getting the best
price you can. If the best price is still too high, bear in mind that good-quality materials can be just as serviceable as top-of-the-line luxury products. Although contractors and subcontractors will purchase appliances and materials for you, this service isn’t free; they typically take a markup on every item they buy. It’s often cheaper to research and purchase the materials yourself.
Comparison-Shop for Contractors
While cost shouldn’t be your first consideration when looking for a contractor, it’s an important one for most
people. If you want to reduce your total labor expense, it’s better to cut back on service rather than on the
contractor’s experience and abilities. Regardless of the contractor’s reputation or how much he or she charges, always check references. Whenever possible, talk to several recent customers and visit some completed job sites. As the saying goes, “The best predictor of future success is past performance.
Do Some Work Yourself
Since labor is often the most expensive element of a remodeling project, you may be able to save money by doing parts of the job yourself. However, tackle only those tasks that you’re confident you can complete successfully.
Bargain hunting is a very practical way to control remodeling costs that many homeowners actually enjoy (but
many others despise). Do bear in mind this simple bit of advice however: Don’t buy junk.
Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 02
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 02
Budgeting
Establishing a budget is an important step in the remodeling process, and it involves more than determining how much money you have, or want, to spend. Additional factors, including the current value of your home and how long you plan to stay there, should have bearing on your budgeting decisions because they will help you set a sensible budget goal.
Setting a Budget Goal
How much should you spend on your kitchen project? Real estate professionals offer the following rough guidelines, based on the market value of your home before the remodel and the complexity of your project.
• For a full, down-to-the-wall-studs kitchen remodeling job with a general contractor and all new materials and fixtures, plan to spend 10 percent to 20 percent of your home’s value ($15,000 to $30,000 for a $150,000 home);
• For a full remodel that includes an addition to your house, plan to spend up to 35 percent of your home’s value ($52,500 for a $150,000 home);
• For a simple cosmetic makeover, plan to spend at least 2 percent of your home’s value ($3,000 for a
$150,000 home).
Do these sound like huge sums of money? There are good reasons to invest in a new kitchen. A remodeled
kitchen is one of the few home improvements that translates directly into a higher market value for your home. Even if you plan to sell in the near future, you’ll enjoy the improvements until that time, and the kitchen’s new look may help make the sale when the time comes. However, it’s probably wise to scale back on the project if you plan to sell immediately. If you’ll be keeping your home for many years, the investment risk of the project lies in your enjoyment of the new kitchen. But with thoughtful planning and careful selection of appliances and materials, you’re sure to get a great return on your investment over the years. While it may be best to pay for a remodel with disposable income—that is, accumulated savings—there are several legitimate ways to pay for an improvement project and even more ways to reduce and manage the cost of a new kitchen.
Major appliances are likely to account for a big percentage of your total kitchen remodeling budget. But unlike other aspects of the project, you have a great ability to control the costs of appliances by choosing inexpensive but dependable models. Consider, however, that expensive, highend ranges and refrigerators are likely to last longer, both functionally and stylistically.
Appliance Costs
Side-by-Side Refrigerator: $900 to $5,000
Self-cleaning Range: $800 to $2,000
Gas Cooktop: $400 to $6,000
Convection Oven: $1,000 to $4,000
Range Hood: $100 to $2,500
Dishwasher: $200 to $1,500
Double-basin sink: $300 to $2,000
Faucet with Sprayer: $100 to $400
Estimating Costs
Begin your budgeting process by estimating the cost of your ideal kitchen, as you’ve envisioned it so far, including appliances, countertops, cabinets, flooring, lighting, and miscellaneous materials. Note that the cost figures for products and services can involve guesswork; minimize it by checking the prices in appliance stores and building centers, and ask contractors about their rates. Also add any additional labor charges you expect, such as interior design, cleanup help, and trash hauling. Finally, total all your costs, then add a 10 percent to 20 percent contingency fund to the total. The contingency fund is essential: few remodeling projects come in exactly on budget, and it’s difficult to list every expense at this stage, so keep your estimates on the high side to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
Budgeting
Establishing a budget is an important step in the remodeling process, and it involves more than determining how much money you have, or want, to spend. Additional factors, including the current value of your home and how long you plan to stay there, should have bearing on your budgeting decisions because they will help you set a sensible budget goal.
Setting a Budget Goal
How much should you spend on your kitchen project? Real estate professionals offer the following rough guidelines, based on the market value of your home before the remodel and the complexity of your project.
• For a full, down-to-the-wall-studs kitchen remodeling job with a general contractor and all new materials and fixtures, plan to spend 10 percent to 20 percent of your home’s value ($15,000 to $30,000 for a $150,000 home);
• For a full remodel that includes an addition to your house, plan to spend up to 35 percent of your home’s value ($52,500 for a $150,000 home);
• For a simple cosmetic makeover, plan to spend at least 2 percent of your home’s value ($3,000 for a
$150,000 home).
Do these sound like huge sums of money? There are good reasons to invest in a new kitchen. A remodeled
kitchen is one of the few home improvements that translates directly into a higher market value for your home. Even if you plan to sell in the near future, you’ll enjoy the improvements until that time, and the kitchen’s new look may help make the sale when the time comes. However, it’s probably wise to scale back on the project if you plan to sell immediately. If you’ll be keeping your home for many years, the investment risk of the project lies in your enjoyment of the new kitchen. But with thoughtful planning and careful selection of appliances and materials, you’re sure to get a great return on your investment over the years. While it may be best to pay for a remodel with disposable income—that is, accumulated savings—there are several legitimate ways to pay for an improvement project and even more ways to reduce and manage the cost of a new kitchen.
Major appliances are likely to account for a big percentage of your total kitchen remodeling budget. But unlike other aspects of the project, you have a great ability to control the costs of appliances by choosing inexpensive but dependable models. Consider, however, that expensive, highend ranges and refrigerators are likely to last longer, both functionally and stylistically.
Appliance Costs
Side-by-Side Refrigerator: $900 to $5,000
Self-cleaning Range: $800 to $2,000
Gas Cooktop: $400 to $6,000
Convection Oven: $1,000 to $4,000
Range Hood: $100 to $2,500
Dishwasher: $200 to $1,500
Double-basin sink: $300 to $2,000
Faucet with Sprayer: $100 to $400
Estimating Costs
Begin your budgeting process by estimating the cost of your ideal kitchen, as you’ve envisioned it so far, including appliances, countertops, cabinets, flooring, lighting, and miscellaneous materials. Note that the cost figures for products and services can involve guesswork; minimize it by checking the prices in appliance stores and building centers, and ask contractors about their rates. Also add any additional labor charges you expect, such as interior design, cleanup help, and trash hauling. Finally, total all your costs, then add a 10 percent to 20 percent contingency fund to the total. The contingency fund is essential: few remodeling projects come in exactly on budget, and it’s difficult to list every expense at this stage, so keep your estimates on the high side to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
Friday, October 21, 2011
Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 01
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Budget and Finance For Kitchen Renovation 01
Any successful kitchen remodel starts with dreams and becomes reality. Which means that at some point, after you’ve spent time wishing and dreaming, you’ll have to figure out where reality lies for you. Dream kitchens can be very expensive, in some cases. But before you panic, take a deep breath and read this posts. You’ll discover many practical ways to control costs and reduce the financial sting of remodeling.
Although you probably have an idea of how much you’d like to spend on your dream kitchen, you’re likely to find that the figure is too small to cover everything you want. To avoid disappointment later, you might as well know upfront: when budgeting for a kitchen remodel, you need to be prepared to pay a bit more than you’ve planned and be willing to settle for a bit less than you’ve dreamed. Compromise is inevitable in the remodeling process, but with perseverance and a bit of luck, you can spend reasonably and still end up with a beautiful new kitchen that you’ll love to use.
Determining a budget depends primarily on the extent of remodeling needed in your kitchen. When budgeting for a kitchen remodel, you must also consider how much an updated kitchen will add to the value of your home. Kitchen remodels have the highest rate of return over every other room in the home, so that you can expect to recoup up to 80 or 90 percent of your investment in added real estate value. Something to consider when shopping for a loan to finance a kitchen renovation is that if you choose to take out a home equity loan, the interest may be tax deductible.
Whatever your projected budget, comparison shopping can help keep you within your budget. Be sure to get three to four estimates for any work you hire out, and ask that the estimates be broken down by materials and labor costs. The same goes for appliances; a simple online search can help you determine the lowest rates for standard appliances, which will often be honored by any subsequent seller you find. A visit to your local supplier allows you to touch and feel the products before buying. Be sure to quote the lowest rate for the same model and style, to see if they can match it.
As a guide, here are a few of the projected prices for standard kitchen appliances and fixtures in brand new
condition. This does not account for top-of-the line imported models available at the luxury end of the spectrum or bargain-basement discontinued models at the lowest end.
Dream kitchens, even modest ones like this, can be shockingly expensive. Realistic decision-making, comparison shopping, and strict budgeting can feel like they’re dampening your dream kitchen at times, but they are important aspects of turning your dreams into a real kitchen.
Any successful kitchen remodel starts with dreams and becomes reality. Which means that at some point, after you’ve spent time wishing and dreaming, you’ll have to figure out where reality lies for you. Dream kitchens can be very expensive, in some cases. But before you panic, take a deep breath and read this posts. You’ll discover many practical ways to control costs and reduce the financial sting of remodeling.
Although you probably have an idea of how much you’d like to spend on your dream kitchen, you’re likely to find that the figure is too small to cover everything you want. To avoid disappointment later, you might as well know upfront: when budgeting for a kitchen remodel, you need to be prepared to pay a bit more than you’ve planned and be willing to settle for a bit less than you’ve dreamed. Compromise is inevitable in the remodeling process, but with perseverance and a bit of luck, you can spend reasonably and still end up with a beautiful new kitchen that you’ll love to use.
Determining a budget depends primarily on the extent of remodeling needed in your kitchen. When budgeting for a kitchen remodel, you must also consider how much an updated kitchen will add to the value of your home. Kitchen remodels have the highest rate of return over every other room in the home, so that you can expect to recoup up to 80 or 90 percent of your investment in added real estate value. Something to consider when shopping for a loan to finance a kitchen renovation is that if you choose to take out a home equity loan, the interest may be tax deductible.
Whatever your projected budget, comparison shopping can help keep you within your budget. Be sure to get three to four estimates for any work you hire out, and ask that the estimates be broken down by materials and labor costs. The same goes for appliances; a simple online search can help you determine the lowest rates for standard appliances, which will often be honored by any subsequent seller you find. A visit to your local supplier allows you to touch and feel the products before buying. Be sure to quote the lowest rate for the same model and style, to see if they can match it.
As a guide, here are a few of the projected prices for standard kitchen appliances and fixtures in brand new
condition. This does not account for top-of-the line imported models available at the luxury end of the spectrum or bargain-basement discontinued models at the lowest end.
Dream kitchens, even modest ones like this, can be shockingly expensive. Realistic decision-making, comparison shopping, and strict budgeting can feel like they’re dampening your dream kitchen at times, but they are important aspects of turning your dreams into a real kitchen.
Kitchens In Summer Spaces 03
Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchens In Summer Spaces 03
In that sense, matte finishes are recommended and the use wood (preferably oak or if cherry) and, above all, if you will use in homes mountain. The use of mahogany is not advisable, because it is extremely difficult to clean to the clusters of fat, but if you have to use as a termination may blacken to avoid too dirty. In general, all materials to implement must be corrosion resistant and salt and moisture. Sinks and equipment kitchen must be of stainless steel, as the handles of the cabinets. However, the key element that ensures the time spent in base cabinets villas in beach and mountain houses, is the top or counter. Of course, it must be resistant to food handling, the acids, soda and detergents. the granite Silestone natural and top the list of stones and less corrosive resistant to caps or countertops.
As for storage, we must understand that kitchens belonging to the so-called 'Second homes' are usually minimal or small size, and for that reason, you should be at least one battery (or body) of drawers and maximize wall space and furniture corners, providing a system Intelligent storage, which also allows keep everything in order. As for the color palette, the color of classic kitchens with walls shades based white tiled, and furnishings timbered neutral and can be more creative summer and residential spaces until to give way to strong contrasts. black caps with clear and vice versa cabinets, furniture blue and even red walls, everything is permitted in the game environment to these spaces, finally, should be considered as a true 'Second home' for their owners.
A metallic blue Cooking Viforming Line (available from the company Modular Ideas, LLC) is functional, safe, easy maintenance, resistant to climate and, of course, aesthetics, through materials and of its colors.
In that sense, matte finishes are recommended and the use wood (preferably oak or if cherry) and, above all, if you will use in homes mountain. The use of mahogany is not advisable, because it is extremely difficult to clean to the clusters of fat, but if you have to use as a termination may blacken to avoid too dirty. In general, all materials to implement must be corrosion resistant and salt and moisture. Sinks and equipment kitchen must be of stainless steel, as the handles of the cabinets. However, the key element that ensures the time spent in base cabinets villas in beach and mountain houses, is the top or counter. Of course, it must be resistant to food handling, the acids, soda and detergents. the granite Silestone natural and top the list of stones and less corrosive resistant to caps or countertops.
As for storage, we must understand that kitchens belonging to the so-called 'Second homes' are usually minimal or small size, and for that reason, you should be at least one battery (or body) of drawers and maximize wall space and furniture corners, providing a system Intelligent storage, which also allows keep everything in order. As for the color palette, the color of classic kitchens with walls shades based white tiled, and furnishings timbered neutral and can be more creative summer and residential spaces until to give way to strong contrasts. black caps with clear and vice versa cabinets, furniture blue and even red walls, everything is permitted in the game environment to these spaces, finally, should be considered as a true 'Second home' for their owners.
A metallic blue Cooking Viforming Line (available from the company Modular Ideas, LLC) is functional, safe, easy maintenance, resistant to climate and, of course, aesthetics, through materials and of its colors.
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