Replace a Flapper 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Flapper 02


THE PROJECT

1. Unhook the chain or unscrew the lift wire from the flush lever.

2. Pull off the flapper from the overflow tube. It may be hooked in place with “wings” on either side of it, or have a large thick ring that will be pulled up and over the overflow tube.

3. Clean the tank outlet (flush valve) with a scrubber pad or steel wool to remove any mineral buildup. The valve should be smooth, not pitted, in order for it to seal properly. If there are cracks in the valve seat, it must be replaced.

4. To install the new flapper, first make any modifications to the replacement flapper as recommended by the manufacturer (if it’s not an exact replacement).
5. Attach the flapper to the overflow tube making sure that it drops directly over the valve seat. Raise and lower the stopper to make sure it’s attached properly.

6. Attach the chain or lift wire to the flush lever.
7. Trip the flush lever to see if the chain or wire is in the proper position or length. With the flapper in the closed-down position, the chain should neither be taut nor have too much slack. Be aware that the flush lever should not hit the tank lid when flushing; if it does, shorten the chain and remove excess chain links.
8. Turn on the water, let the tank fill, and give it a test flush.

Replace a Flapper 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Flapper 01

If you hear your toilet running or suddenly refilling itself (“ghost” flushing), the first thing you should check is the flapper. A faulty flapper is an extremely common problem that causes toilets to waste thousands of gallons of water a year. A toilet flapper (or stopper) is part of the flush valve assembly in the tank that opens and closes, allowing water to pass from the tank to the bowl when you flush the toilet. If a flapper is worn or misaligned, it no longer seals the flush valve (valve seat) and will cause the toilet to keep refilling itself as the water level drops in the tank. To do a quick check on the flapper’s condition, just roll up your sleeve, stick your hand in the toilet
tank, and run your fingers around the flapper— chances are black rubber will get all over your fingers, indicating that it’s degraded and failing.

CONSIDER THIS

Toilet flappers vary as to how they attach in the tank. It’s always best to bring the old part with you to the store for a replacement. You may find an exact replacement or universal-fit flapper. I highly recommend replacing the old flapper with one that’s made of silicone-coated rubber and has a no-kink, no-rust chain, like the Hornet flapper. It won’t degrade over time the way a rubber flapper would, and it’ll last far longer than other flappers, especially in areas where hard water is an issue.

PREP WORK

• Before emptying the tank, turn off the water to the toilet at the shut-off valve, or at the water main if one isn’t designated to that toilet.
• Remove the lid and place it on a folded towel out of the way.
• Flush the toilet a couple of times.

• With a large sponge, soak up any remaining water in the tank. Squeeze out the sponge into a bucket
and repeat until the tank is water free.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Replacement flapper
Old towel
Bucket
Large man-made sponge
Scrubber pad, fine sandpaper, or steel
wool

Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 02


THE PROJECT

1. Feed the corkscrew tip of the auger down into the toilet and begin pressing and turning the handle clockwise, until the curved plastic sheathing is resting at the mouth of the drain.
2. Continue turning the handle fi rmly as the coil works its way through the clog. When the clog begins to break up, the water in the bowl will begin draining.
3. Once you’re through the clog, slowly pull out the auger.

4. Dump a full bucket of water down the toilet to clear away the debris.
5. Turn on the water valve and give the toilet a fl ush. If it’s still clogged, repeat these steps.
6 Rinse the auger with a disinfectant cleaner and let it dry before putting it away.

Snake Through Tough Clogs

Plumber’s snakes (a.k.a. drain or trap snake, drum auger, toilet jack, and so on) are flexible augers that can be used to get through a variety of clogs in a variety of ways. For example, they can be used through a clean-out of a sink drain or down the overflow of a tub drain. They also come in various sizes and types. Small manual snakes are very effective, but for tougher clogs you can find handheld drill-driven ones. Just be careful when using this type— they have a tendency to whip around, especially as you pull them out.

Larger motorized snakes are available for rent, but I don’t recommend them for novices. These units are very
powerful and could potentially damage pipes or, worse yet, you! Leave these tools for the professionals. Don’t let this discourage you—barring some radical exceptions, practically no drain clog is safe from the fierce bite of a nonmotorized plumber’s snake.

Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 01

When a plunger just isn’t doing the trick, it’s time to get serious with a closet auger. This type of plumber’s snake (see the sidebar “Snake Through Tough Clogs”) is specially designed with a shape that conforms to a toilet and plastic sheathing that won’t scratch the bowl’s porcelain surface.

PREP WORK

• Warning: If you have attempted to use a commercial drain cleaner to clear a clog prior to using an auger, you must take safety precautions. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and a mask to protect yourself from the harsh chemicals that may splash on you during the auger process.
• Turn off the water at the toilet shut-off valve.
• If the toilet is fi lled to the rim, wait a little while to let it drain down before starting to snake it. If the bowl is
completely fi lled and stagnant, you may want to use a small bucket to scoop out some of the water and . . . stuff . I know this seems utterly vile, but better to have the muck contained in a bucket than splashing around the bathroom as you try to maneuver the snake through it.
• Lift up the toilet seat.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Closet auger
Rubber gloves**
Safety glasses*
Mask*
Bucket
Disinfectant cleaner
* If applicable
** Optional

Replace a Damaged Tile Section 03

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Damaged Tile Section  03


THE PROJECT: Replacing a wall section

1. Measure the opening in the wall.

2. Transfer the measurement of the opening to the cement board and cut it to size (see the sidebar “Cutting Cement Board” below).
3. Test-fit the cement board in the opening. You shouldn’t have to force the board in place. Make sure the new board sits flush with the existing wall; you may need to build out the studs with furring strips if the board sits too low.
4. When you’re sure of a proper fit, apply construction adhesive to the studs and press the board in place.

5. Using cement board screws, fasten the board to the studs.

THE PROJECT: Reinstalling tile

6. Mix the thin-set mortar according to the manufacturer’s directions.

7. Using a 3⁄8-inch trowel, apply the thin-set to a section of cement board—spread enough for a two or three tiles.

8. Press each new tile in place, making sure they sit flush with the existing tiles and with one another. Use the butt of your fist to gently pound the tile against the wall to be sure they make solid contact with the thin-set. If applicable, use appropriate-size tile spacers for accurate grout lines, or for a small section, you can space them by eye. For a bottom course of tiles that run along the tub, be sure to create a joint for the grout line with spacers—don’t let them sit right on the tub.
9. With a scraper, clean out any thin-set mortar that may have oozed out of the joints. Wipe away any mortar that may have gotten on the face of the tiles. Allow 24 hours for tiles to set before grouting.

10. To fill in grout lines, use a grout fl oat to press the grout into the joints of the tile lines. It’s best to hold the float at an angle and pass over the area fi rmly in a diagonal direction.

11.With a damp sponge, gently wipe away the grout that remains on the face of the tile.
12. As the grout dries, a powdery residue will form. Gently wipe away the residue with a soft, clean rag, being careful not to wipe out any of the grout. Let the grout dry overnight.
13. Replace any fixtures that you’ve removed.

Cutting Cement Board

Cement board (a.k.a. WonderBoard or backer board) is the only choice for wet areas like tubs and showers.
Cutting it can be tough if you don’t have the right tool. I fi nd the easiest way to cut cement board is with a
special knife. A good carbide-tipped cement board cutter is my choice over a circular saw or jigsaw. While
a hand tool will require more elbow grease, I prefer it to the mess of dust that a power tool makes.

To cut the cement board, fi rst transfer the measurement of your opening onto the board using a T-square.
On the inside of the cut line, use the cutter tool to score your mark, making several passes with the help of a
straightedge to help keep your line straight. Be sure to penetrate the mesh. Then apply pressure to the back
of the cement board and fi rmly snap the scored piece back at the scored line. Once it “cracks” open at the
scored line, use a utility knife from the backside to fi nish cutting through the board.

It’s important to be accurate with your measurements and cuts. When cutting, it’s typically recommended to err on the larger side, knowing that you can trim something down. However, unlike wood or drywall, cement board is not a friendly material when it comes to shaving off small amounts. If you need to cut a hole for a pipe fixture, transfer the placement measurement onto the cement board and use a drill with an appropriate-size hole-saw bit to make the opening.

Replace a Damaged Tile Section 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Damaged Tile Section  02


TO REMOVE THE OLD TILES

• Plug the drain with a rag and cover the basin with a towel or tarp.

• Pry out the loose tiles with a small pry bar or scraper. Firmly but carefully insert the tip of the pry bar in the loose section of the joint, and then slowly pry the tiles away from the wall. You can try to reuse the tiles, but you must work very carefully when you remove the tiles. Chances are, you’ll need to buy replacement tiles.
• After the first course is removed, it’ll be easier to slide a scraper behind the next course of tile. Wedge the scraper far enough inward to get good leverage for easier prying.
• Continue removing courses of tile until you reach a course that is firmly adhered. Tapping on the tile is a good way to tell if it’s solidly attached—a hollow-sounding tile means that it’s loose. Be sure to see that an undamaged section of wall is eventually revealed; this will be necessary to attach the new section of wall.
• If you’re reusing tile, use the scraper to remove adhesive from the tile.

TO REMOVE THE OLD WALL SECTION

• With a utility knife and straightedge score the length of wall that needs to be removed. Doing so will diminish the chances of disturbing the rest of the wall when removing the damaged section. Leave a perimeter or “lip” of undamaged wall; you’ll butt up to that when fastening the new cement board.

• Use a drywall saw to cut out the damaged wall section going through the lengths you’ve scored. Remove any nails or screws that are securing the damaged wall to the studs. Pull out the damaged wall section.
• Be sure that the framing is sound. (If you find the wood is wet, soft, and rotted, you’ll need to remove a larger section of tile and wall, and then reinforce the framing with new wood. At this point, you may consider bringing in a professional.)
• If mold has grown on the framing, wipe down the studs with an antifungal cleaner.
• Wipe away any remaining debris and vacuum the entire area so you don’t damage your tub surface by grinding debris into it.
• Allow the entire area to dry out completely before continuing this project.

Replace a Damaged Tile Section 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Damaged Tile Section  01

If water seeps behind your tiles, eventually mold will grow, the wallboard will weaken, and the tiles will loosen and ultimately fall out. Th is is very common around tub spouts that aren’t sealed properly.

CONSIDER THIS

This project will require 2 to 3 days to account for work and drying times.

PREP WORK

If your damaged section of tiles is around any fi xtures, you must first remove the fixtures to get them out of the way for the new wall section and tile (see Replace a Tub Spout).

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Replacement tiles (if the old tiles can’t be reused)
Drill/driver
Hole-saw bit*
Small pry bar
Scraper
Utility knife
Drywall saw
Clean rags
Large towel or tarp
Gloves and safety glasses
Vacuum
Tape measure
Pencil
Cement board
T-square
Straightedge (or use T-square)
Cement board carbide-tipped cutter
Construction adhesive
Cement board screws
3⁄8-inch trowel
Thin-set mortar (latex modified)
Disposable bucket
Tile spacers
Grout
Grout float
Large man-made tile sponge
Bucket
Antifungal cleaner*
Furring strips*
* If applicable

Replace a Tub Spout 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Replace a Tub Spout 02


TO REMOVE A THREADED SPOUT

• By hand, and with enough force, unscrew the entire spout counterclockwise. If there is a bead of caulking around the spout making it difficult to unscrew, break the seal with a utility knife.

You may need to use tongue-and-groove pliers if it’s hard to budge.

• Clean off any Teflon tape or sealant from the threads with a scouring pad, and remove any caulking
from the tile with a scraper.


THE PROJECT: Slip spout

1. Clean off any old residue on the tile with a razor scraper.
2. Slip it over the nipple and tighten the set-screw.
3. Apply a small bead of silicone caulking around the back end of the spout to create a watertight seal around the wall.


THE PROJECT: Threaded spout

1. Wrap new Teflon tape clockwise around the threads of the nipple, three tight spins.
2. Screw on the new spout.

3. Apply a small bead of silicone caulking around the back end of the spout to create a watertight seal around the wall.

Replace a Tub Spout 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Replace a Tub Spout 01


Replacing a tub spout becomes more than an aesthetic update when the diverter stops working properly. It’s no fun when you flip the tub spout to shower mode, but more water seeps out of the tub spout than comes out of the showerhead. That’s fine if you have a fetish for exceedingly clean feet, but for trying to wash shampoo out of your hair? Not so much.

CONSIDER THIS

Getting the proper tub spout replacement is crucial, so be sure to bring the old one with you to the plumbing parts store.

PREP WORK

You’ll fi rst need to identify whether your spout is a threaded or a slip type. A slip-type spout slips over the pipe that comes from the wall (called a nipple) and is fastened to the nipple with a set-screw. A threaded-type spout is threaded and screws onto the nipple that protrudes from the wall.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Tub spout with correct fi t (type, length, with
or without diverter)
Allen wrench or screwdriver (for a slip spout)
Tongue-and-groove pliers*
Utility knife*
Teflon tape (for threaded spout)
Scouring pad (for threaded spout)
Razor scraper
Silicone caulking
Caulking gun
* If applicable

TO REMOVE A SLIP SPOUT

• Look around under the spout, toward the wall for a slot from where the screw is accessible. With an Allen wrench or screwdriver, loosen the screw.
• Once the screw is loose, just slip off the spout. If a bead of caulking around the spout is making it difficult to unscrew, break the seal with a utility knife.

Add a Handheld Showerhead with a Slide Bar 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Add a Handheld Showerhead with a Slide Bar 02


THE PROJECT

1. Determine the maximum height and right-to-left placement of the new showerhead, and then mark the wall with a pencil.
2. Using the kit’s mounting bracket, mark your drill holes at the location you have chosen.

3. Measure the bar length down from the top bracket and mark the spot for the bottom bracket—use a level to make sure it’s plumb (or a true vertical). Mark the drill holes. (The instructions may give a definitive length to drill the holes. If not, measure the distance of the assembled bar.)

4. Score the hole marks with a nail punch and hammer to create a starting point for the drill bit. (See “Drilling Tips for Tile”.)
5. Drill the holes for your mounting bracket. The kit will indicate the drill bit size.

6 Insert the anchors into the holes. Put a bead of silicone caulking around the back of the mounting brackets and screw them into the anchors.
7. Assemble the slide bar. This will usually involve attaching the shower holder to the bar and a bracket cover on to each end. Make sure that the shower holder slides properly up and down the bar.
8. Put a bead of silicone caulking around the back of each bracket cover.

9. Secure the assembled bar to the mounting brackets. Typically, there will be a set-screw on each bracket cover that will screw onto the mounting brackets with an Allen wrench or screwdriver.

10. Screw the shower hose to the shower arm, and then the handheld shower to the hose. Many kits call for hand-tightening.
11. Turn on the water to check for leaks.
12. Place your new handheld shower on the bar and admire your work. Allow the silicone to dry before using the shower.

Add a Handheld Showerhead with a Slide Bar 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Add a Handheld Showerhead with a Slide Bar 01

The convenience of a height-adjustable showerhead provides a custom fit and shower experience for everyone. Available today are handheld shower kits that connect to your existing shower arm, so installation is simple. There are also kits that off er both a fixed showerhead and a handheld showerhead that enables you to adjust back and forth between the two using a diverter switch.

CONSIDER THIS

• Take time to consider proper slide-bar placement because installation requires drilling holes in the shower wall.
• Handheld shower kits vary. Th ese instructions below offer a typical installation. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions.
• If you use a silicone caulking, follow manufacturer’s drying time before showering.
• Slide bars should not be used as a safety grab rail.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Handheld showerhead with slide bar kit
Tongue-and-groove pliers (a second pair of
pliers may be necessary)
Screwdriver
Nail-set (or nail punch) and hammer
Allen wrench (hex key)
Drill/driver
Masonry bit (see kit instructions for size)
Scouring pad
Tefl on tape
Anchors and screws (should be included
in kit)
Silicone caulking
Caulking gun
Penetrating oil*
* If applicable

PREP WORK

• Before removing the old showerhead, wrap the plier jaws with masking tape to prevent marring the fixture finish.

• Holding back the shower arm with your hand (or second set of pliers if it’s really tight), use your tongue-and-groove pliers to unscrew the showerhead at the nut. Unscrew it counterclockwise. Use penetrating oil if the showerhead won’t budge.
• Remove any old Tefl on tape or buildup that may be around the threads of the shower arm. Use a scouring pad to clean the threads.

• Wrap new Tefl on tape around the threads of the shower arm, clockwise, making two tight spins.

Repair a Leaky Showerhead 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Repair a Leaky Showerhead 02


THE RENOVATION PROJECT

1. With the water shut off from the shut-off valve or the water main, turn on the shower to check that the water is off.

2 Gently pry the decorative cap on the handle off with a metal nail file or flathead screwdriver.

With the screw exposed, unscrew it and pull off the handle.

3. With the handle off, there may be a sleeve, a locking nut, and/or retaining clip(s) that need to be removed. Use a wrench or pliers to remove the sleeve or nut. Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to remove the clip. (Faucets vary, so you may need to work through a bit of a puzzle to remove the cap, handle,
nut, clip[s] and so on, so be patient!)

4. Pull out the cartridge using pliers, but first look to see if there’s a mark, fl at side, or notch, and mentally note its orientation. Pulling out the cartridge may take some patience—wiggle it out little by little.
5. If the cartridge won’t budge, consider using a cartridge puller, which can be purchased at a plumbing supply store (see the sidebar “Using a Cartridge Puller” below).
6. Bring the old cartridge to the store with you for the proper replacement part. Remember to note the brand of faucet. If you have a choice of brass or plastic, opt for brass—although more expensive, it lasts much longer.
7. To insert the new cartridge fi rst recall a mark, fl at side, or notch to indicate orientation. Push the new cartridge in place with your finger. The manufacturer may recommend plumber’s grease.
8. Reassemble the unit—insert the retaining clip(s) locking nut, and so on (if applicable). Then reattach the handle.
9. Turn on the water from the shut-off valve or water main and test the faucet. Check to see that hot and
cold water work in the proper handle position. If they’re crossed (hot comes out of cold and vice versa),
rotate the cartridge 180 degrees.
10. Replace the decorative cap. Finished!

Using a Cartridge Puller

When a cartridge just won’t budge, which is very common with older shower faucets and in areas with hard water, you may need the assistance of a cartridge puller. Pullers vary according to faucet brand, so each one is set-up a little differently. Be sure to find one that is compatible with your faucet type.

To use the puller, you insert it into or over the cartridge by pushing or screwing the puller in place. (Typically, there is a threaded screw on the puller that screws into the old valve cartridge stem.) After the puller is engaged with the old cartridge, twist the puller slightly clockwise and counterclockwise, and then pull the
cartridge straight out. This will break loose any mineral buildup and set that cartridge free.

Repair a Leaky Showerhead 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Repair a Leaky Showerhead 01

If your shower is leaking from the showerhead when the water is completely shut off , you probably
have a leaky cartridge or valve. Like a leaky faucet, a shower faucet repair works the same way. You need to first identify what type of shower faucet you have. Is it a cartridge, compression, or ball type? (See “Repair a Leaky Faucet".) The steps to repair a regular faucet can be used to repair a shower faucet with a few minor variations that you’ll be able to fi gure out with a little hands-on inspection. This project addresses a typical cartridge-type shower faucet.

CONSIDER THIS

To replace your faucet cartridge, you’ll have to shut the water off to your shower from a shut-off valve to your bathroom or at the water main to the house. Before attempting this project, verify that your showerhead
isn’t a bit clogged—if that’s the case, water will build-up in the nozzle and slowly drip out when the water is shut off , mimicking a leak. (See “Clean a Showerhead”.) If you cannot identify your shower’s faucet brand and model, the best way to fi nd a replacement is to bring the old cartridge with you to the hardware or plumbing supply store.

PREP WORK

• Shut off the water to the faucet from the shut-off valves or at the water main.
• Place a rag over the shower drain so that nothing falls down it.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Replacement cartridge
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Needle-nose pliers
Tongue-and-groove pliers
Wrench*
Metal nail file or pocket knife
Cartridge puller*
Rag
Heat-resistant plumber’s grease
* If applicable

Replace a Showerhead 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Replace a Showerhead 02


THE PROJECT

1. Wrap new Tefl on tape around the threads of the shower arm, clockwise, making two tight spins.

2. By hand, screw on the new showerhead and then snug it tight with the pliers.
3. Turn on the water and check for leaks. Snug the showerhead on tighter if there’s a leak. It may be necessary to hold back the shower arm to prevent it from spinning as you tighten the showerhead.


Replacement Shower Trim Kit

Complete tub/shower trim kits are available that can totally renew the look of your shower. A replacement trim kit is basically all the pretty stuff on the outside of the shower wall—no valves or supply pipes—just the escutcheon, showerhead, shower arm, flange, control knob (or lever) and tub spout if applicable. First identify your shower’s brand and model and see if a trim kit for it is available by contacting the manufacturer or checking with a plumbing supply store.

Instructions will be included with the kit, but basically it’s taking a showerhead replacement to the next level. The good news is no special plumbing skills are required. Talk about updating without remodeling!

Replace a Showerhead 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Replace a Showerhead 01


Our new home came with the most inept showerheads. Now, how is a boring little showerhead supposed to satisfy a gal who wants shower time to be an energizing romp through a waterfall, when all it gives her is a dull dance with drizzle? There are so many exciting showerheads available today. From downpour rain heads to fi veway massaging sprayers to low-fl ow water savers— the hardest thing about changing a showerhead is choosing one.

CONSIDER THIS

It’s very important that you don’t loosen the shower arm from its connection behind the wall—this could cause a leak! To ensure that you don’t disrupt this connection, practice holding back the arm, which means holding it with your hand or pliers to prevent it from moving back as you remove or attach the showerhead.

PREP WORK

• Before removing the old showerhead, wrap the plier jaws with masking tape to avoid marring the finish.

• Holding back the shower arm with your hand (or second set of pliers if it’s really tight), use your tongue-and-groove pliers to unscrew the showerhead at the nut. Unscrew it counterclockwise. Use penetrating oil if the showerhead won’t budge.

• Remove any old Tefl on tape or buildup that may be around the threads of the shower arm (b). Use a scouring pad to clean the threads.


WHAT YOU’LL NEED


Replacement showerhead
Tongue-and-groove pliers (a second pair of
pliers may be necessary)
Scouring pad
Tefl on tape
Penetrating oil*
* If applicable

Frame a Vanity Mirror 03

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Frame a Vanity Mirror 03


THE PROJECT: Mitered corners

1. Measure the length of the lower edge of the mirror and add 1⁄4 inch to that measurement.

2. Cut a clean mitered edge on one of your molding lengths. Remember to note the top and bottom of the molding. Keep in mind that the long point of the miter cut will be the actual length of the mirror plus 1⁄8 inch overhang on each side (to hide the mirror’s side edge).
3. With a tape measure, starting from the long point of the miter cut, mark your measurement on the molding with a pencil.
4. Using that mark as the long point of the miter cut, cut your second corner.

5. Dry-fi t the lower length and make any necessary adjustments.
6. Apply adhesive to the molding in a squiggly line. Do not put adhesive more than 1⁄2 inch from the inside mirror edge. The adhesive will dry clear, but you still may see traces of it in the mirror’s reflection. Also, allow room for adhesive to spread as you press the molding in place.
7. Press the molding onto the bottom of the mirror. Wipe away any excess.
8. Take another measurement for your two side lengths adding 1⁄8 inch to that measurement.
9. Follow Steps 2–7 to install the side moldings.
10. For the top molding, measure and mark the distance between the side lengths. Dry-fi t it, making any adjustments. Glue, press in place, and wipe away any excess.

Frame a Vanity Mirror 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Frame a Vanity Mirror 02

PREP WORK

• Stain (if wood) or prime and paint your lengths of molding and allow for drying time. Start by first painting half the backside (that will be the inside edge to the mirror), and then flip them over and paint the face of the molding. A good way to do this is to prop up their ends on blocks of wood or coff ee cans to enable you to flip them over while they’re still wet, to paint the other side.
• Allow lengths and corner pieces (if applicable) to dry completely. Follow the paint or stain manufacturer’s instructions and drying times.
• Note if you have metal clips that hold the mirror in place, you’ll need to notch space for them using a small chisel.

THE PROJECT: Corner block moldings

Gluing the lower length first, then the sides, and then the top makes for an easier install because lengths can rest on one another while drying.

1. Dry-fi t corner blocks and molding to see how they should join in relation to the lengths to the mirror. If the corner blocks are wider than the molding, mark the blocks where the lengths should be positioned to them.
2. Apply adhesive to the back of a block (follow the manufacturer’s instructions and drying times). Do not put adhesive more than a 1⁄2 inch close to the inside edge. The glue will dry clear, but you still may see traces of it in the mirror’s reflection. Also, allow room for the adhesive to spread as you press the block in place.
3. Press the block on the lower corner of the mirror, allowing an even overlap along the mirror edges to hide the mirror’s side edge. Wipe away any excess. Glue the second block on the other side.

4. Marking materials is the best way to get an accurate measurement— take one of your molding lengths and hold it up to the glued blocks. With a pencil, mark the distance between the blocks. Do not use the factory edge as “one side” because it won’t be square.

To square the edge, mark a perpendicular line, then cut a clean squared end.  If there are any metal hanging clips, mark their location on the molding. If you can’t fi t the entire length of molding in your bathroom, just take a measurement between blocks (and clips, if applicable).
5. Cut the length using your miter box. If you have clips to account for, notch out space for them along the back of the molding using a chisel. Sand smooth any cuts.

6. Dry-fi t the molding. They should butt easily between the blocks. If the corner blocks are larger than your lengths, line them up to the marks you made on the blocks. Make sure the lengths sit slightly past the mirror edge—make any necessary adjustments.

7. Apply adhesive to the molding in a squiggly line and press it onto the mirror between the blocks. Remember not to apply adhesive too close to the edges. Wipe away any excess.
8. Glue the two upper corner blocks and repeat Steps 1–3.
9. Glue the sides and then the top, repeating Steps 4–7.