THE PROJECT: Replacing a wall section
1. Measure the opening in the wall.
2. Transfer the measurement of the opening to the cement board and cut it to size (see the sidebar “Cutting Cement Board” below).
3. Test-fit the cement board in the opening. You shouldn’t have to force the board in place. Make sure the new board sits flush with the existing wall; you may need to build out the studs with furring strips if the board sits too low.
4. When you’re sure of a proper fit, apply construction adhesive to the studs and press the board in place.
5. Using cement board screws, fasten the board to the studs.
THE PROJECT: Reinstalling tile
6. Mix the thin-set mortar according to the manufacturer’s directions.
7. Using a 3⁄8-inch trowel, apply the thin-set to a section of cement board—spread enough for a two or three tiles.
8. Press each new tile in place, making sure they sit flush with the existing tiles and with one another. Use the butt of your fist to gently pound the tile against the wall to be sure they make solid contact with the thin-set. If applicable, use appropriate-size tile spacers for accurate grout lines, or for a small section, you can space them by eye. For a bottom course of tiles that run along the tub, be sure to create a joint for the grout line with spacers—don’t let them sit right on the tub.
9. With a scraper, clean out any thin-set mortar that may have oozed out of the joints. Wipe away any mortar that may have gotten on the face of the tiles. Allow 24 hours for tiles to set before grouting.
10. To fill in grout lines, use a grout fl oat to press the grout into the joints of the tile lines. It’s best to hold the float at an angle and pass over the area fi rmly in a diagonal direction.
11.With a damp sponge, gently wipe away the grout that remains on the face of the tile.
12. As the grout dries, a powdery residue will form. Gently wipe away the residue with a soft, clean rag, being careful not to wipe out any of the grout. Let the grout dry overnight.
13. Replace any fixtures that you’ve removed.
Cutting Cement Board
Cement board (a.k.a. WonderBoard or backer board) is the only choice for wet areas like tubs and showers.
Cutting it can be tough if you don’t have the right tool. I fi nd the easiest way to cut cement board is with a
special knife. A good carbide-tipped cement board cutter is my choice over a circular saw or jigsaw. While
a hand tool will require more elbow grease, I prefer it to the mess of dust that a power tool makes.
To cut the cement board, fi rst transfer the measurement of your opening onto the board using a T-square.
On the inside of the cut line, use the cutter tool to score your mark, making several passes with the help of a
straightedge to help keep your line straight. Be sure to penetrate the mesh. Then apply pressure to the back
of the cement board and fi rmly snap the scored piece back at the scored line. Once it “cracks” open at the
scored line, use a utility knife from the backside to fi nish cutting through the board.
It’s important to be accurate with your measurements and cuts. When cutting, it’s typically recommended to err on the larger side, knowing that you can trim something down. However, unlike wood or drywall, cement board is not a friendly material when it comes to shaving off small amounts. If you need to cut a hole for a pipe fixture, transfer the placement measurement onto the cement board and use a drill with an appropriate-size hole-saw bit to make the opening.
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