Replace a Flapper 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Flapper 02


THE PROJECT

1. Unhook the chain or unscrew the lift wire from the flush lever.

2. Pull off the flapper from the overflow tube. It may be hooked in place with “wings” on either side of it, or have a large thick ring that will be pulled up and over the overflow tube.

3. Clean the tank outlet (flush valve) with a scrubber pad or steel wool to remove any mineral buildup. The valve should be smooth, not pitted, in order for it to seal properly. If there are cracks in the valve seat, it must be replaced.

4. To install the new flapper, first make any modifications to the replacement flapper as recommended by the manufacturer (if it’s not an exact replacement).
5. Attach the flapper to the overflow tube making sure that it drops directly over the valve seat. Raise and lower the stopper to make sure it’s attached properly.

6. Attach the chain or lift wire to the flush lever.
7. Trip the flush lever to see if the chain or wire is in the proper position or length. With the flapper in the closed-down position, the chain should neither be taut nor have too much slack. Be aware that the flush lever should not hit the tank lid when flushing; if it does, shorten the chain and remove excess chain links.
8. Turn on the water, let the tank fill, and give it a test flush.

Replace a Flapper 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Flapper 01

If you hear your toilet running or suddenly refilling itself (“ghost” flushing), the first thing you should check is the flapper. A faulty flapper is an extremely common problem that causes toilets to waste thousands of gallons of water a year. A toilet flapper (or stopper) is part of the flush valve assembly in the tank that opens and closes, allowing water to pass from the tank to the bowl when you flush the toilet. If a flapper is worn or misaligned, it no longer seals the flush valve (valve seat) and will cause the toilet to keep refilling itself as the water level drops in the tank. To do a quick check on the flapper’s condition, just roll up your sleeve, stick your hand in the toilet
tank, and run your fingers around the flapper— chances are black rubber will get all over your fingers, indicating that it’s degraded and failing.

CONSIDER THIS

Toilet flappers vary as to how they attach in the tank. It’s always best to bring the old part with you to the store for a replacement. You may find an exact replacement or universal-fit flapper. I highly recommend replacing the old flapper with one that’s made of silicone-coated rubber and has a no-kink, no-rust chain, like the Hornet flapper. It won’t degrade over time the way a rubber flapper would, and it’ll last far longer than other flappers, especially in areas where hard water is an issue.

PREP WORK

• Before emptying the tank, turn off the water to the toilet at the shut-off valve, or at the water main if one isn’t designated to that toilet.
• Remove the lid and place it on a folded towel out of the way.
• Flush the toilet a couple of times.

• With a large sponge, soak up any remaining water in the tank. Squeeze out the sponge into a bucket
and repeat until the tank is water free.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Replacement flapper
Old towel
Bucket
Large man-made sponge
Scrubber pad, fine sandpaper, or steel
wool

Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 02


THE PROJECT

1. Feed the corkscrew tip of the auger down into the toilet and begin pressing and turning the handle clockwise, until the curved plastic sheathing is resting at the mouth of the drain.
2. Continue turning the handle fi rmly as the coil works its way through the clog. When the clog begins to break up, the water in the bowl will begin draining.
3. Once you’re through the clog, slowly pull out the auger.

4. Dump a full bucket of water down the toilet to clear away the debris.
5. Turn on the water valve and give the toilet a fl ush. If it’s still clogged, repeat these steps.
6 Rinse the auger with a disinfectant cleaner and let it dry before putting it away.

Snake Through Tough Clogs

Plumber’s snakes (a.k.a. drain or trap snake, drum auger, toilet jack, and so on) are flexible augers that can be used to get through a variety of clogs in a variety of ways. For example, they can be used through a clean-out of a sink drain or down the overflow of a tub drain. They also come in various sizes and types. Small manual snakes are very effective, but for tougher clogs you can find handheld drill-driven ones. Just be careful when using this type— they have a tendency to whip around, especially as you pull them out.

Larger motorized snakes are available for rent, but I don’t recommend them for novices. These units are very
powerful and could potentially damage pipes or, worse yet, you! Leave these tools for the professionals. Don’t let this discourage you—barring some radical exceptions, practically no drain clog is safe from the fierce bite of a nonmotorized plumber’s snake.

Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Unclog a Toilet with an Auger 01

When a plunger just isn’t doing the trick, it’s time to get serious with a closet auger. This type of plumber’s snake (see the sidebar “Snake Through Tough Clogs”) is specially designed with a shape that conforms to a toilet and plastic sheathing that won’t scratch the bowl’s porcelain surface.

PREP WORK

• Warning: If you have attempted to use a commercial drain cleaner to clear a clog prior to using an auger, you must take safety precautions. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and a mask to protect yourself from the harsh chemicals that may splash on you during the auger process.
• Turn off the water at the toilet shut-off valve.
• If the toilet is fi lled to the rim, wait a little while to let it drain down before starting to snake it. If the bowl is
completely fi lled and stagnant, you may want to use a small bucket to scoop out some of the water and . . . stuff . I know this seems utterly vile, but better to have the muck contained in a bucket than splashing around the bathroom as you try to maneuver the snake through it.
• Lift up the toilet seat.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Closet auger
Rubber gloves**
Safety glasses*
Mask*
Bucket
Disinfectant cleaner
* If applicable
** Optional

Replace a Damaged Tile Section 03

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Damaged Tile Section  03


THE PROJECT: Replacing a wall section

1. Measure the opening in the wall.

2. Transfer the measurement of the opening to the cement board and cut it to size (see the sidebar “Cutting Cement Board” below).
3. Test-fit the cement board in the opening. You shouldn’t have to force the board in place. Make sure the new board sits flush with the existing wall; you may need to build out the studs with furring strips if the board sits too low.
4. When you’re sure of a proper fit, apply construction adhesive to the studs and press the board in place.

5. Using cement board screws, fasten the board to the studs.

THE PROJECT: Reinstalling tile

6. Mix the thin-set mortar according to the manufacturer’s directions.

7. Using a 3⁄8-inch trowel, apply the thin-set to a section of cement board—spread enough for a two or three tiles.

8. Press each new tile in place, making sure they sit flush with the existing tiles and with one another. Use the butt of your fist to gently pound the tile against the wall to be sure they make solid contact with the thin-set. If applicable, use appropriate-size tile spacers for accurate grout lines, or for a small section, you can space them by eye. For a bottom course of tiles that run along the tub, be sure to create a joint for the grout line with spacers—don’t let them sit right on the tub.
9. With a scraper, clean out any thin-set mortar that may have oozed out of the joints. Wipe away any mortar that may have gotten on the face of the tiles. Allow 24 hours for tiles to set before grouting.

10. To fill in grout lines, use a grout fl oat to press the grout into the joints of the tile lines. It’s best to hold the float at an angle and pass over the area fi rmly in a diagonal direction.

11.With a damp sponge, gently wipe away the grout that remains on the face of the tile.
12. As the grout dries, a powdery residue will form. Gently wipe away the residue with a soft, clean rag, being careful not to wipe out any of the grout. Let the grout dry overnight.
13. Replace any fixtures that you’ve removed.

Cutting Cement Board

Cement board (a.k.a. WonderBoard or backer board) is the only choice for wet areas like tubs and showers.
Cutting it can be tough if you don’t have the right tool. I fi nd the easiest way to cut cement board is with a
special knife. A good carbide-tipped cement board cutter is my choice over a circular saw or jigsaw. While
a hand tool will require more elbow grease, I prefer it to the mess of dust that a power tool makes.

To cut the cement board, fi rst transfer the measurement of your opening onto the board using a T-square.
On the inside of the cut line, use the cutter tool to score your mark, making several passes with the help of a
straightedge to help keep your line straight. Be sure to penetrate the mesh. Then apply pressure to the back
of the cement board and fi rmly snap the scored piece back at the scored line. Once it “cracks” open at the
scored line, use a utility knife from the backside to fi nish cutting through the board.

It’s important to be accurate with your measurements and cuts. When cutting, it’s typically recommended to err on the larger side, knowing that you can trim something down. However, unlike wood or drywall, cement board is not a friendly material when it comes to shaving off small amounts. If you need to cut a hole for a pipe fixture, transfer the placement measurement onto the cement board and use a drill with an appropriate-size hole-saw bit to make the opening.

Replace a Damaged Tile Section 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Damaged Tile Section  02


TO REMOVE THE OLD TILES

• Plug the drain with a rag and cover the basin with a towel or tarp.

• Pry out the loose tiles with a small pry bar or scraper. Firmly but carefully insert the tip of the pry bar in the loose section of the joint, and then slowly pry the tiles away from the wall. You can try to reuse the tiles, but you must work very carefully when you remove the tiles. Chances are, you’ll need to buy replacement tiles.
• After the first course is removed, it’ll be easier to slide a scraper behind the next course of tile. Wedge the scraper far enough inward to get good leverage for easier prying.
• Continue removing courses of tile until you reach a course that is firmly adhered. Tapping on the tile is a good way to tell if it’s solidly attached—a hollow-sounding tile means that it’s loose. Be sure to see that an undamaged section of wall is eventually revealed; this will be necessary to attach the new section of wall.
• If you’re reusing tile, use the scraper to remove adhesive from the tile.

TO REMOVE THE OLD WALL SECTION

• With a utility knife and straightedge score the length of wall that needs to be removed. Doing so will diminish the chances of disturbing the rest of the wall when removing the damaged section. Leave a perimeter or “lip” of undamaged wall; you’ll butt up to that when fastening the new cement board.

• Use a drywall saw to cut out the damaged wall section going through the lengths you’ve scored. Remove any nails or screws that are securing the damaged wall to the studs. Pull out the damaged wall section.
• Be sure that the framing is sound. (If you find the wood is wet, soft, and rotted, you’ll need to remove a larger section of tile and wall, and then reinforce the framing with new wood. At this point, you may consider bringing in a professional.)
• If mold has grown on the framing, wipe down the studs with an antifungal cleaner.
• Wipe away any remaining debris and vacuum the entire area so you don’t damage your tub surface by grinding debris into it.
• Allow the entire area to dry out completely before continuing this project.

Replace a Damaged Tile Section 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation :  Replace a Damaged Tile Section  01

If water seeps behind your tiles, eventually mold will grow, the wallboard will weaken, and the tiles will loosen and ultimately fall out. Th is is very common around tub spouts that aren’t sealed properly.

CONSIDER THIS

This project will require 2 to 3 days to account for work and drying times.

PREP WORK

If your damaged section of tiles is around any fi xtures, you must first remove the fixtures to get them out of the way for the new wall section and tile (see Replace a Tub Spout).

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Replacement tiles (if the old tiles can’t be reused)
Drill/driver
Hole-saw bit*
Small pry bar
Scraper
Utility knife
Drywall saw
Clean rags
Large towel or tarp
Gloves and safety glasses
Vacuum
Tape measure
Pencil
Cement board
T-square
Straightedge (or use T-square)
Cement board carbide-tipped cutter
Construction adhesive
Cement board screws
3⁄8-inch trowel
Thin-set mortar (latex modified)
Disposable bucket
Tile spacers
Grout
Grout float
Large man-made tile sponge
Bucket
Antifungal cleaner*
Furring strips*
* If applicable