• If the tile is stubborn, you’ll need to break it out. First, scrape out the old grout joints. Then punch small divots in a big X across the face of the tile with the nail set and hammer. With the divots as starting points, drill holes through the tile (but not the wall) to weaken it and create a break point (picture below).
Now break out the tile in small pieces with the hammer and chisel.
• Once the tile is out, scrape off the adhesive from the wall with the scraper.
• Use a grout saw (see picture below) to clean the edges of the adjoining tiles on the wall. Small bits of adhesive may remain as long as no big bumps are left, it will be fine.
• Use the scraper to remove adhesive from the tile.
• If the wall is damp from water that has seeped behind the tile, allow it to dry completely before continuing.
Drilling Tips for Tile
When drilling into tile, there are a couple of special tidbits you should know about. First, only use an appropriate-sized masonry bit. Carbide tips are great for ceramic, but for porcelain, which is more dense,
diamond tips work best.
Second, know that the bit will want to “walk” on you—the bit will spin off the drill point center as you’re
trying to drive the bit. You can prevent the bit from walking by making a divot in the tile surface with a nail
set and hammer—an etched starting point that the bit can bite into. Just be careful not to hammer too hard
and crack the tile (unless you’re breaking the tile out).
Another trick is to put duct tape right over the spot you need to drill—the tape creates enough traction
for the bit to dig in. Just transfer the drill spot to the tape so you know where it is.
Last, start drilling slowly, at a low speed, and with steady, fi rm pressure. Too much pressure will break
the tile; too little won’t penetrate. It’s a delicate dance that takes some practice.
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