How to Build a Butcher Block Countertop 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Build a Butcher Block Countertop 01

Butcher block slabs come in a variety of woods or since they are made up of small pieces of wood glued together—a combination of different woods. They’re available most commonly in maple or oak in end grain, which is composed of vertical pieces of wood, or edge grain and face grain, made up long strips of wood. Making butcher block can be accomplished as an advanced DIY project, but it’s often more costeffective (and always faster) to purchase pieces in stock sizes and cut it down to fit your kitchen. Since butcher block is ideal for food prep areas but can be impractical near a sink or stove, another option is to install a small section of butcher block in combination with other countertop materials.

Butcher block countertops are enjoying a resurgence in popularity because of their natural beauty and warm
wood tones.

Tools & Materials


Circular saw with
cutting guide
Carpenter’s square
Drill and bits
Bolt connector
hardware
Caulk gun and silicone
adhesive
Clamps
Sander
Varnish
Router with piloted
roundover bit
Wood screws with
fender washers
Jigsaw with downstroke bit
Brush and finish material
Tape
Connector fittings
Forstner bit
Silicone adhesive
Faucet and sink

How to Install a Post-form Countertop 04

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Install a Post-form Countertop 04

Mark cutout for self-rimming sink. Position the sink upside down on the countertop and trace its outline. Remove the sink and draw a cutting line 5⁄8" inside the sink outline.

Drill a starter hole just inside the cutting line. Make sink cutouts with a jigsaw. Support the cutout area from
below so that the falling cutout does not damage the cabinet.

Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the edges of the mitered countertop sections. Force the countertop pieces
tightly together.

From underneath the countertop, install and tighten miter take-up bolts. Position the countertop tightly against the wall and fasten it to the cabinets by driving wallboard screws up through the corner brackets and into the countertop (inset). Screws should be long enough to provide maximum holding power, but not long enough to puncture the laminate surface.

Seal the seam between the backsplash and the wall with silicone caulk. Smooth the bead with a wet fingertip. Wipe away excess caulk.

How to Install a Post-form Countertop 03

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Install a Post-form Countertop 03

Hold the endcap laminate against the end, slightly overlapping the edges. Activate adhesive by pressing an
iron set at medium heat against the endcap. Cool with a wet cloth, then file the endcap laminate flush with the
edges of the countertop.

Position the countertop on the base cabinets. Make sure the front edge of the countertop is parallel to the cabinet faces. Check the countertop for level. Make sure that drawers and doors open and close freely. If needed, adjust the countertop with shims.

Because walls are usually uneven, use a compass to trace the wall outline onto the backsplash. Set the compass arms to match the widest gap, then move the compass along the length of the wall to transfer the outline to the top of the backsplash. Apply painter’s tape to the top edge of the backsplash, following the scribe line (inset).

Remove the countertop. Use a belt sander to grind the backsplash to the scribe line.

How to Install a Post-form Countertop 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Install a Post-form Countertop 02

OPTION: Use a jigsaw fitted with a downstroke blade to cut post-form. If you are unable to locate a downstroke blade, you can try applying tape over the cutting lines, but you are still likely to get tear-out from a normal upstroke jigsaw blade.

Use a framing square to mark a cutting line on the bottom surface of the countertop. Cut off the countertop with a jigsaw using a clamped straightedge as a guide.

Attach the battens from the endcap kit to the edge of the countertop using carpenter’s glue and small brads. Sand out any unevenness with a belt sander.

How to Install a Post-form Countertop 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Install a Post-form Countertop 01

Post-form laminate countertops are available in stock and custom colors. Pre-mitered sections are available for two- or three-piece countertops that continue around corners. If the countertop has anexposed end, you will need an endcap kit that contains a pre-shaped strip of matching laminate. Post-form countertops have either a waterfall edge or a no-drip edge. Stock colors are typically available in 4-, 6-, 8-, 10-, and 12-foot straight lengths and 6- and 8-foot mitered lengths.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Framing square
Pencil
Straightedge
C-clamps
Hammer
Level
Caulking gun
Jigsaw
Compass
Adjustable wrench
Belt sander
Drill and spade bit
Cordless screwdriver
Post-form countertop
Wood shims
Take-up bolts
Drywall screws
Wire brads
Endcap laminate
Silicone caulk
Wood glue

The following tools and materials will be used in this project:

wood for shimming (A); take-up bolts for drawing miters together (B); household iron (C); endcap laminate to match countertop (D); endcap battens (E); file (F); adjustable wrench (G); buildup blocks (H); compass (I); fasteners (J); silicone caulk and sealer (K).

Post-form countertops are among the easiest and cheapest to install. They are a good choice for beginning DIYers, but the design and color options are fairly limited.

Kitchen Countertop Selection 06

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchen Countertop Selection 06


Concrete Countertops

Concrete has become a very popular, exceptionally dramatic countertop choice. It is a custom option, but is not as expensive as granite. It can be cast in place under certain conditions, but as a moderate to difficult DIY project, it should be created offsite where the dust and chemicals can be easily managed. Concrete can be dyed or stained in many different colors and will accept a virtually unlimited number of finishes. Drainboards can be cast in and ornamental objects can be embedded in the concrete for added functionality or just to make it more unique. Concrete needs to be resealed regularly, or it will permanently stain. Acidic foods will etch the surface. Like ceramic tile and stone surfaces, it has no give, so expect a greater number of broken glasses and plates. Custom concrete sinks as part of the counter are also possible.

Concrete countertops are cast in forms in a well-ventilated work area and then transported to the cabinets after they are machined and polished.

Stone


Soapstone, slate, marble, and granite are all types of natural stone that are used for countertops. Although they are all quarried stone and are all fairly expensive, they have numerous differences. Soapstone has been used for kitchen countertops and sinks for hundreds of years. Though the stone itself is easily workable with nonspecialized tools, its surface is nonabsorbent and unaffected by either acids or alkalis. The surface will age to a glossy patina, or it can be oiled to achieve this finish. Slate for countertops is durable, hard, and dense. Scratches can be rubbed out, its surface is nonabsorbing and it does not require sealing. Slate comes in shades of green, purple, gray, and black, with a rare red available at a higher cost.

The beauty of marble comes from its veining patterns—unfortunately these are mini fault lines along which the stone will easily break, especially if improperly installed. Some marble is as hard as granite, but most is fairly soft and scratches easily. Granite is the hardest of the stone countertops. It comes in an ever-increasing array of colors—ranging from whites and blacks to pinks, reds, yellows, and greens—as more countries begin exporting their local granites. The main drawback is that it must be sealed to prevent staining.

A big slab of beautiful, natural stone makes an incomparable countertop that is normally at the top of the cost range.

Comparing Countertop Materials

Click to enlarge the image

Kitchen Countertop Selection 05

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchen Countertop Selection 05


Stainless Steel

Although it is slightly more expensive than solid surface or quartz on a per-square-foot basis, stainless steel is a popular countertop material in home kitchens as well as in commercial kitchens. That’s because it is an impervious material that doesn’t stain, can handle hot pots, and can be fabricated into seamless countertops and sinks. Stainless steel countertops for residential use are usually bonded to plywood or particleboard to quiet the noise and prevent denting. Sinks can either be fabricated as part of the countertop, or, more likely, welded in. Either way, it is a seamless application. The biggest downside is that stainless steel shows fingerprints and watermarks, especially on a polished surface, so it’s best to get a matte or satin surface.

Stainless steel countertops normally are bonded to a plywood subbase in residential applications.

Butcher Block & Wood

Advancing technology in wood finishes and sealants have made wood countertops a viable option for kitchen applications. Historically, the amount of water splashed around a sink would ruin a wood surface. The best of the wood options is butcher block, which can be ordered and installed as a relatively easy DIY project. Butcher block is made up of small pieces of wood glued together into a slab. It’s generally categorized as either end grain, which is composed of vertical pieces of wood, or edge grain, made of long strips of wood. The thickness of stock slabs can vary, from 11⁄2" for the standard countertop to 4" for an island or small-section installation. Many people assume that butcher block is convenient because you no longer need cutting boards, but it’s a poor idea to use them as direct cutting surfaces. Every nick and cut will collect dirt and will darken differently when the surface is reoiled. Wood, no matter how well it is sealed, expands and contracts in relation to humidity levels, so installation of a wood countertop requires special considerations.

Butcher block material is sold in standard countertop width and thickness and in varying lengths.

Kitchen Countertop Selection 04

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchen Countertop Selection 04


Solid Surface


Solid-surface countertops, commonly described by the common brand name Corian™, are popular but more expensive options. With solid color throughout, the pieces are joined with a bonding compound that leaves no visible seam line. Solid-surface countertops can be shaped and inlaid, it comes in many colors and patterns, it is durable, and light damage like scratches can be repaired easily. Solid-surface should not be used as a cutting board, however, and hot pans cannot be placed directly on the surface. Most spills are easily cleaned with soap and water.

Though solid-surface materials are easily worked with standard hand tools, do-it-yourselfers may have difficulty purchasing the materials and bonding agents. If a non-licensed installer installs one of those countertops, the manufacturer will not honor any product warranties.

Solid-surface countertops can be installed on islands or as accents if you don’t have the budget to put them everywhere in your kitchen.

Quartz Surfaces


Quartz countertops resemble solid-surface countertops in many ways, but they have a higher percentage of mineral material versus plastic resins and binders. Quartz surfaces are manufactured from 93 percent quartz and 7 percent pigments, resins, and binders. Because all quartz surfaces are manufactured using essentially the same equipment and formulas, any difference in appearance among products is due to the type of quartz used.

The quartz surface is unscratchable, non-porous, non-staining, does not need to be sealed, and will not scorch or mar from high heat. Although it is as hard as granite, quartz has more inherent flexibility, so surface cracking does not occur. The surface is cool to the touch, like granite and marble.

Quartz countertops are almost solid granulated and reconstituted quartz (the most common mineral on earth).

Kitchen Countertop Selection 03

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchen Countertop Selection 03


Laminate & Post-form


Laminate countertops are formed from layers of resin-saturated paper and plastic that are bonded under pressure, then given a protective coating. The laminate is bonded to a substrate to create the countertop. Also available is through-color laminate, in which the surface color runs all the way through. This product doesn’t have the dark edge of standard laminate and does not show surface damage as easily, but it is two to three times more expensive.

The cheapest laminate countertop is ready-made post-form. A post-form countertop comprises a backsplash, counter, and bullnose front apron formed into one seamless piece. Home centers carry post-form countertop options in various lengths and in a few stock colors. You can also have a custom post-form countertop made, which will be slightly more expensive.

One limitation of laminate countertops is that sinks must be drop-in, not undermounted. Though the laminate itself is waterproof, the particleboard or plywood it is attached to will swell if it gets wet. Laminate is also not as heat-proof or scratch-proof as other countertop materials.

Plastic laminate is bonded to a particleboard subbase with contact cement.

Post-form countertops have a laminate surface that is applied at the factory.

Tile


Whether they are ceramic or natural stone, tile countertops are popular, mid-priced options. If you like the look of granite but don’t want to pay the price, granite tile can create a similar look for substantially less, especially if you do the installation yourself. When selecting tiles for countertops, make sure they are floor tiles—wall tiles will not stand up to the wear and tear of countertop use.

Two major drawbacks of ceramic or stone tile are hardness and grout lines. Glassware and pottery will break and chip readily when knocked or dropped against this surface. Grout lines make the surface uneven and difficult to keep clean, so choose larger tiles to minimize grout lines. Using tiles for a backsplash is an excellent way to get the look of tile near the countertop.

Tiles are set into a bed of thinset mortar troweled onto a cementboard or tilebacker subbase.

Kitchen Countertop Selection 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchen Countertop Selection 02


More than simply a worksurface, a kitchen countertop can dazzle with the look-at-me drama of mottled granite or bring together a country theme with honed soapstone and butcher block. But durability and maintenance (and cost of course) are generally the primary concerns when it comes to countertops.

Some materials, like granite, can withstand the heat of pots and pans, so they are better suited for heavy-duty cooks. Others, including laminate, are affordable options that come in a wide variety of modern colors. There are many choices in countertops, from the less-expensive laminate, through ceramic and stone tile, to concrete and wood, to high-end granite and marble.


Countertop options for your kitchen depend on how much you are willing to spend, whether you will be doing it yourself or contracting it out, and what look you want to achieve. When choosing countertops, remember that you do not need to have a uniform countertop. Many people choose to use more expensive countertop materials as accents or for islands rather than for the entire kitchen. And last, but not least, if you are inclined toward green remodeling practices, you may find some surprises when you compare countertop materials.

Fabricated countertop material like quartz and solid-surface is virtually impenetrable to water. If it becomes scratched, minor damage can easily be buffed out.

Kitchen Countertop Selection 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Kitchen Countertop Selection 01

Your countertops play an important role in your kitchen. They must be sturdy and durable enough to withstand the daily pounding and chopping that goes on in most kitchens. They should resist staining and heat and be easy to clean. And because they command so much visible area, they have a great impact on the appearance of the kitchen. In short, if you don’t like the look of your countertops, you won’t like your kitchen.

While you will find a wide range of countertop types in the marketplace, just a handful of them are truly well suited for DIY installation. Among these are postform (probably the easiest to work with) and plastic laminate countertops. Installing tiled countertops remains a very popular DIY project, with traditional ceramic floor tiles still the leading product. Newer variations are increasing in popularity, however, including tiles that are made from natural stone such as granite. Poured concrete countertops are another option that has seen strong growth in popularity and is a manageable DIY project if you have some concrete experience and plenty of patience.

Although it is possible to get around the restrictions if you’re a creative type, manufacturers of solid surfacing and quartz countertop materials generally insist that only licensed technicians do the installations. Natural stone countertops are simply too heavy for most homeowners to install. Stainless steel countertops are popular now, too, but they require a lot of skill and some expensive fabricating equipment to be installed correctly.

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets 02

Begin painting by labeling each door and its cabinet bay with a number printed on painters’ tape. This will help you replace the doors and drawers. Remove all the doors, drawers, and hardware. Clean all surfaces—front, back, top, bottom, inside, outside, edges—with a grease-cutting cleaner such as synthetic trisodium phosphate (TSP). Follow the directions carefully.

Sand all surfaces with 100-grit sandpaper. Fill all screw holes and nicks and dents with wood filler, and then sand smooth when dry. If you are reusing the same hardware, you do not need to fill the screw holes.

Prime the surfaces. Use a synthetic brush to paint all surfaces with a coat of high-quality, sandable acrylic primer. Allow the primer to dry. Sand with 150-grit sandpaper to remove brush marks and drips.

Apply a coat of latex enamel paint using 3"-wide short nap rollers. Make sure to smooth out any drips. Allow the paint to dry completely. Apply a second coat. Allow to dry thoroughly. Install the hardware and rehang the doors.

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets 01


Kitchen Cabinet Paint


Painting the cabinets can brighten any drab and dreary kitchen. Doing the job properly does require a substantial amount of work, however, but the payoff is large. As with most painting jobs, preparation is crucial to success. Kitchen cabinets have been exposed to years of grease and water damage, so thorough cleaning and sanding is necessary. Before sanding previously painted kitchen cabinets, test the existing paint for lead. Do not sand lead-based paint. It is toxic.

If veneer layers have bubbled from water damage, slice away the loose veneer, fill the area with wood filler, and then sand smooth when dry. Note: Non-wood cabinets, such as melamine-coated, are difficult to repaint due to the impenetrable nature of the surface. There are specialty paints available, however, that bond reasonably well to these slick, non-wood surfaces. Many of them are oil-based, which creates more fumes and makes cleanup more difficult. The steps for painting melamine are the same as for painting wood. Metal cabinets can also be repainted. The best results for metal are obtained using spray paint.

Painting cabinets is an easy and inexpensive way to brighten up your kitchen. Painted cabinets also happen to be popular in current design trends.



Tools and materials for painting wood cabinets include:

(A) Semigloss or gloss enamel paint; (B) wash bucket; (C) primer; (D) roller tray; (E) roller sleeve (3"); (F) paintbrushes; (G) rags; (H) TSP cleaner and rubber gloves; (I) palm sander; (J) new cabinet hardware (optional); (K) screwdriver; (L) putty knife; (M) wood filler; (N) sandpaper (100- and 150-grit) and (O)
sanding block.

Building Overlay Drawers

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Building Overlay Drawers

Anatomy of an overlay drawer: The basic drawer box is made using 1⁄2" plywood for the front, back, and side panels with a 1⁄4" plywood bottom panel. The bottom panel fits into 1⁄4" dadoes cut near the bottom of the front and side panels and is nailed to the bottom edge of the back panel. The hardwood drawer face is screwed to the drawer front from the inside, and it is sized to overhang the face frame by 1⁄2" on all sides. Note: This drawer is designed to be mounted with a center-mounted drawer slide attached to the bottom of the drawer. If you use different hardware, like side-mounted drawer slides, you will need to alter this design according to slide manufacturer’s directions.

Part                                Measurement
Sides      Length       Depth of opening, minus 3"
Sides      Height        Height of opening, minus 1⁄2"
Front      Length       Width of opening, minus 11⁄2"
Front      Height        Height of opening, minus 1⁄2"
Back      Length       Width of opening, minus 11⁄2"
Back      Height        Height of opening, minus 1"
Bottom   Width        Width of opening, minus 1"
Bottom    Depth        Depth of opening, minus 23⁄4"
Face       Length       Width of opening, plus 1"
Face      Height         Height of opening, plus 1"

How to Build a Base Kitchen Cabinet 03

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Build a Base Kitchen Cabinet 03

Build or purchase drawers. Simple overlay drawers are easy to make from 1⁄2" plywood and a false front made of hardwood.

Install drawer slide hardware on the drawer. Slides may be center-mounted, as seen here, or side-mounted in
pairs. Typically, side-mounted slides are rated for higher weight capacity.

Mount drawer slide hardware in the cabinet interior according to the manufacturer's instructions. Install the
drawers and test the fit. Add drawer pull hardware.

Add the countertop of your choice. If you are building just a single base cabinet, consider a higher end material such as solid surfacing or granite. The small scale will let you introduce an expensive material without spending a fortune.

How to Build a Base Kitchen Cabinet 02

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Build a Base Kitchen Cabinet 02

Build the face-frame from 1 × 3 maple (actual sizes 3⁄4 × 21⁄2" and 3⁄4 × 51⁄4"). The glued joints can be reinforced with biscuits, splines, or dowels prior to assembly, or they can be glued, clamped, and reinforced with pocket screws, as seen here.

Attach the face frame to the cabinet with glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes. The face-frame should be flush with the cabinet tops, slightly above the cabinet bottoms, and overhanging the sides equally by a small amount. Sand and finish the cabinet as desired.

Install the cabinet. Mark the locations of the wall studs in the project area, and then set the cabinet in place. Check with a level and shim under the cabinet, if necessary, to level it. Toenail the side panels to the floor at shim locations using 2" finish nails. Score shims, and break off excess.

Anchor the cabinet by driving 31⁄2" screws through the back panel and into wall studs just below the top of
the cabinet.

How to Build a Base Kitchen Cabinet 01

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : How to Build a Base Kitchen Cabinet 01

Base Cabinet Project Details

Side panels made from 3⁄4" plywood have 3⁄4"-wide, 3⁄8"-deep dadoes to hold the bottom panel and 1⁄2"-wide, 3⁄8"-deep rabbets where the back panel will fit. The bottom dado is raised so the bottom drawer will be at a comfortable height.

The face frame includes 1 × 6 bottom rails and 1 × 3s for the stiles and other rails. Cut and assemble the face frame, following the dimensions shown in the photo above. Use biscuits, splines, or dowels to reinforce the joints. Alternately, drive pocket screws after the parts are glued and clamped.

How to Build & Install a Base Cabinet

Assemble cabinet panels. Cut the side and bottom panels from 3⁄4" plywood (cabinet-grade maple is seen here), and cut the 1⁄2" plywood back panel. Use a router and piloted rabbet bit to create 3⁄8 × 1⁄2" rabbets in the side panels for the back panel. Cut dadoes for the bottom panel into the side panels using a router, straight bit, and straightedge guide. Install the bottom panel between the side panels. Glue, clamp, and then drive finish nails through the side panels and into the ends of the bottom panel.

Install two 1 × 3 spreaders between the side panels at the top of the cabinet. Clamp the spreaders in position and attach them with glue and 2" finish nails driven through the side panels.

Custom Kitchen Cabinets 07

Kitchen And Bathroom Renovation : Custom Kitchen Cabinets 07

Install the cabinet by setting it onto the temporary ledge, and then brace it in position with a 2 × 4 wedged between the cabinet and the floor below (or the base cabinet, if present). Drill countersunk pilot holes in the nailing strip at the top of the cabinet, and drive 3" screws into the wall studs.

Use a level to make sure the cabinet is plumb. If not, loosen the screws slightly and insert shims behind the cabinet to adjust it to plumb. Tighten the screws completely, score shims with a utility knife, and break off excess.

Build or buy cabinet doors. A simple overlay door can be made from 1⁄2" plywood that matches the cabinet and door-edge molding that is mitered at the corners to frame the plywood panel. Hang the cabinet doors with hinges.

Build and install shelves. Here, shelves are made from 3⁄4"- thick plywood with a 1⁄4 × 3⁄4" hardwood strip nosing on the front edge. Set the finished shelves on shelf pins inserted in the pin-holes drilled in the cabinet side.