Cabinets must be firmly anchored to wall studs, and they must be plumb and level when installed. The best way to ensure this is by attaching a ledger board to the wall to assist in the installation. As a general rule, install the upper cabinets first so your access is not impeded by the base cabinets. (Although some pros prefer to install the base cabinets first so they can be used to support the uppers during installation.) It’s also best to begin in a corner and work outward from there.
Tools & Materials
Handscrew clamps
Level
Hammer
Utility knife
Nail set
Clamps
Drill
Counterbore drill bit
Phillips screwdriver
Jigsaw
1 × 3 lumber
Cabinets
Trim molding
Toe-kick molding
Filler strips
Valance
6d finish nails
Finish washers
21⁄2", 4" wood screws
21⁄2" cabinet screws or
flathead wood screws
Sheet metal screws
#8 panhead wood screws
3" drywall screws
Shims
Stock cabinets are sold in boxes that are keyed to door and drawer packs (you need to buy these separately). It is important that you realize this when you are estimating your project costs at the building center (often a door pack will cost as much or more than the cabinet). Also allow plenty of time for assembling the cabinets out of the box. It can take an hour or more to put some more complex cabinets together.
How to Fit a Corner Cabinet
Before installation, test-fit the corner and adjoining cabinets to make sure doors and handles will not interfere
with each other. If necessary, increase the clearance by pulling the corner cabinet away from the side wall by
no more than 4". To maintain even spacing between the edges of the doors and the cabinet corner, cut a filler
strip and attach it to the corner cabinet or the adjoining cabinet. Filler strips should be made from material that
matches the cabinet doors and face frames.
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