PREP WORK
• Stain (if wood) or prime and paint your lengths of molding and allow for drying time. Start by first painting half the backside (that will be the inside edge to the mirror), and then flip them over and paint the face of the molding. A good way to do this is to prop up their ends on blocks of wood or coff ee cans to enable you to flip them over while they’re still wet, to paint the other side.
• Allow lengths and corner pieces (if applicable) to dry completely. Follow the paint or stain manufacturer’s instructions and drying times.
• Note if you have metal clips that hold the mirror in place, you’ll need to notch space for them using a small chisel.
THE PROJECT: Corner block moldings
Gluing the lower length first, then the sides, and then the top makes for an easier install because lengths can rest on one another while drying.
1. Dry-fi t corner blocks and molding to see how they should join in relation to the lengths to the mirror. If the corner blocks are wider than the molding, mark the blocks where the lengths should be positioned to them.
2. Apply adhesive to the back of a block (follow the manufacturer’s instructions and drying times). Do not put adhesive more than a 1⁄2 inch close to the inside edge. The glue will dry clear, but you still may see traces of it in the mirror’s reflection. Also, allow room for the adhesive to spread as you press the block in place.
3. Press the block on the lower corner of the mirror, allowing an even overlap along the mirror edges to hide the mirror’s side edge. Wipe away any excess. Glue the second block on the other side.
4. Marking materials is the best way to get an accurate measurement— take one of your molding lengths and hold it up to the glued blocks. With a pencil, mark the distance between the blocks. Do not use the factory edge as “one side” because it won’t be square.
To square the edge, mark a perpendicular line, then cut a clean squared end. If there are any metal hanging clips, mark their location on the molding. If you can’t fi t the entire length of molding in your bathroom, just take a measurement between blocks (and clips, if applicable).
5. Cut the length using your miter box. If you have clips to account for, notch out space for them along the back of the molding using a chisel. Sand smooth any cuts.
6. Dry-fi t the molding. They should butt easily between the blocks. If the corner blocks are larger than your lengths, line them up to the marks you made on the blocks. Make sure the lengths sit slightly past the mirror edge—make any necessary adjustments.
7. Apply adhesive to the molding in a squiggly line and press it onto the mirror between the blocks. Remember not to apply adhesive too close to the edges. Wipe away any excess.
8. Glue the two upper corner blocks and repeat Steps 1–3.
9. Glue the sides and then the top, repeating Steps 4–7.
No comments:
Post a Comment